Why didn’t I notice that?
Unless Z-axis moves in a stepped down increment?
By using the increment jogging, if I move up 1/4" (.25), it physically moves up 1/16" (.0625).
Move it up 4 steps which would mean 1" (1.0), it physically moves up to 1/4" (.25)
What Firecontrol says -
Where it actually measures -
Actual movements are a quarter of programmed jogging.
Now we’re getting somewhere. That would also correspond to your cut height of .02" (A setting of .06" + .02" backlash= .08") Exactly 1/4 of the programmed distance.
If you’ve still got your enclosure open (otherwise, please open it), take a look at the dip switches on your Z axis driver. (The one farthest away from the control board.) There should also be a chart on the side. That will tell us what the step settings are currently. Hopefully someone here knows the default settings, otherwise I’ll open up my control box. (@langmuir-reilly perhaps…)
If the dip switches are in the correct configuration, it points to a failing driver, IMO.
Makes perfect sense
I do still have the cover removed so it’ll be easy to check, just need to eat, head out and run some errands but once I pull it I’ll take pictures of how it’s set up.
I lied @Simsworx I got it off right now
I don’t recall Langmuir requesting that the end user should change anything, but just to be safe I’ll check their site’s install instructions and guide just to confirm.
For anyone reading, it’s the bottom most driver and will have a pigtail/harness to the backside of the Z-axis port.
they should be set from factory. there shouldn’t be end user configuration unless it wasn’t set correctly in the first place.
Try setting #2 on (down). See if that helps.
(From the Crossfire Assembly Guide - CrossFire Assembly Guide | Langmuir Systems )
Yeah I scrolled through the install guide and no changes, so thanks for confirming.
Will do when I get back home!
Wonder if the voltage spike that killed resistor 8 in my VIM has anything with the dip switch being the way it is?
Think Langmuir will trade me up for a Pro?
With a bad back (sciatica and nerve damage from being shot) I’m feeling it with the constant bending over 
Try setting dip switch 2 to the down position.
Other than that, the team is catching up from the weekend and will be looking through this post for more ideas soon!
I’ll do that when I get home and report back.
Can you run a big favor for me, and inform Aksel we’re attempting to resolve the issue here?
I had sent him an email regarding the coupler issue days ago only and then emailed him again regarding this issue we’re working on right now.
Moving the dip switch #2 to the down position now translates to exact movement both physical and Firecontrol using incremental movement.
Rather than running the dry program, I am going to run one of the TAP files @Phillipw provided and record a video of the voltage it runs, then run it again and measure physical cut height by pausing in the middle of the run.
Just need to button everything up and place the cover back on the control box.
Learn something new on here every day! Thanks for sharing with the group. Good work @Kwikfab and @Simsworx
I’m not even going to post a video, as the picture will speak for itself.
.030, .020, and .010 for a cut height of .060"
Alright gents, let’s go home
Now I am glad you got it taken care of. Now if you start having some bevel on the top side or flaring after about 100 pierces with your new torch you may want to reset your cut height to the right settings. With the PTM 60 you were using un-shielded consumables and .060" from cutting tip to the metal worked well. But now your using shielded consumables so the cutting tip is recessed about .030" up inside the shield so now your cutting height is .090" . That works on a Hypertherm because of the extra power it puts out, not as well on a Primeweld.
Just something you may want to think about if you start having cutting issues.
This is super useful information, thanks for that!
Real big thanks to everyone here, but really @Phillipw for suggesting the non-firing TAP file that got us looking in the right direction, and @Simsworx for figuring out the troubleshooting step.
I went through Langmuir’s site again as far as install goes and whatnot, and I see no mention of the driver’s at all. Makes sense of course, you shouldn’t be messing with it.
But a small suggestion, with all the disclaimers (very thorough fortunately), maybe adding one to the install of the Z-axis kit for Crossfire and Crossfire Pro users, adding to ensure dip switch #2 is in the down position.
I can’t confirm if mine was ever up or down, but have to say it should’ve been in the correct position since I had a cut height of .06" in the past. To add to this, the cover of the control box was never removed up until today for troubleshooting purposes. The table has always remained in the same place in my garage throughout ownership.
I went through my old pictures of when I first got my CNC table but none show the driver’s switches at all unfortunately.
so…shall we mark this one solved then?..
Just edited the title.
I took a chance and said screw it; loaded up some left over 16 gauge and ran a cut; 9:35 long 
She’s on the wall now; I ran into literally 2 small pieces of dross on top and left it on.
Correction, I thought it was dross from the pictures…I checked up close and there was none on top
The top shown there is right off the table -
So yeah, seems the issue is fixed.
I cut that before seeing @mechanic416 suggestion to lower my cut height due to the shielded consumable set I’m now running.
So I guess I will have to watch “Suits” for entertainment tonight!!! Glad you didn’t go until you hit 200 posts!
Whoops…just did! 
