Never having modified G code, is it safe to assume F is my travel speed?
Which line of that code should I change exactly?
Again I’m happy to set my phone next to my torch and record a video.
As for material flex no sorry, I’m using 1/4" plate as I want a solid, flat surface for accurate measurements. But if say the material was 20 gauge, in theory it would flex the material as the Z axis pushes into the material for a little bit before it springs back up.
Yes f is feed. The line may or should say cut height. Probably f 100 that is 100 ipm. As long as you change that should not hurt anything. As far as a video I am at work cell signal is bad . Someone else I am sure will chime in on it though. Be sure to video the his switch
Look and make sure spring on the switch isn’t broken or missing
Got me setting up a photoshoot 
Here’s the video, only 9 seconds long
I’ll look closely for anything missing, but no the spring is still intact it’s not missing.
Ijs contacts bent or loose?
Based on the video they look flat and, the same as they’re supposed to.
Nothing has ever gotten in there with the exception of splashing of water and again I clean that stuff up often.
Pushing up on the torch by hand to separate the contacts, I checked each one by hand and nope, nothing loose at all.
MOTHER fucker
I forced it down to the material…coupler is now slipping
Such a stupid issue I overlooked, even though I checked for tightness before posting.
Reason why this pisses me off is because my socket cap screws are stripped; they have been since day 1.
The head not the threaded portion itself or the coupler.
I would try and clean IHS contacts with emery cloth and spray with wd then blow clean with shop air.
They’re definitely clean, I feel like an idiot.
It’s my coupler slipping now that I see; I ran Z axis down but manually and the coupler didn’t move until like 2 seconds later from forcing it.
Glad you discovered problem, crank them set screws down tight on coupler. Should work as intended now.
One positive note you know the problem…
Yeah but I don’t think Langmuir would cover this; I could try and ask.
I first experienced the issue when I first purchased my table. I had an issue with Z axis as the instructions or the site stated they’re tightened from the factory.
Real life experience told me otherwise; multiple posts on this forum and the Facebook group experienced the same.
But they stripped immediately when I tightened them (yes I used the correct metric 2mm allen, I own many SAE and metric tools).
Ugh this sucks.
Got you!! I didn’t on the z but bought better ones for x and y. After I had to make one in the middle of the night to finish what I was doing.
My friend has extra couplers as he too upgraded his.
I just don’t know if I can get in there to pull off the coupler unless I’m disassembling the entire THC setup.
Uncharted territory for me. You may pull the motor. If you can get that one loose
Disassembly wouldn’t bother me, I just want to maintain the remainder of my warranty period and have it taken care of if they can/will. If they say no, even though I have an email from them acknowledging the stripped screws from January 17th of this year, then I’ll take pictures of disassembly.
Looks super easy, just don’t want to void my warranty if it’s covered.
I could be wrong. Ls seems pretty easy going about stuff. Some have heavily modified systems. A call email or something will confirm… sometime that takes time.
Yeah they’ve been good to me thus far.
Can’t call them, I don’t own an XR but I did just email them.
