We used to have an Scotchman Iron Worker as well. The punch functionality was killer.
I think I found @TinWhisperer s homepage:
read the manual meme at DuckDuckGo
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Can’t tell me what to do 
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Retired from Toyota. In the early 2000s when Toyota was growing its presence in the US, a lot of “first timer” Japanese men came over. This was not uncommon to have them say this was how they were using our toilets. They felt sitting on a seat where someone else’s rear has touched is nasty. Seat covers are not always available.
If you’ve never seen a Japanese toilet this would seem strange. They are meant to be “hovered over”. First time I went to Japan it was a challenge. “Western toilets” are now much more common in Japan. In case you’re wondering, you face towards the roller 
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Who here cuts thick aluminum often, with a Hypertherm?
Needing to cut some 3/8" aluminum (one time job) and before I go at it with book settings, wondering if I should go a little slower or faster since we use water tables.
Slower. Nasty dross.
And you are going to have a chemistry experiment in your water pan after.
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Slower than book?
I do expect to go slower on the small holes.
This is the part I’m cutting out from aluminum.
This is 10 gauge mild so large holes and exterior done at 90ipm, with the smallest holes done at 50ipm or so (I forget, made for mock up).
Book says 36ipm for 3/8", only problem is the piece of aluminum I was provided doesn’t have enough excess material to do test pieces like I normally would. Going to have to take a shot in the dark for the small holes.
Otherwise I would’ve done test cuts and refrained from posting lol
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My phone is not letting me paste text from an email message from hypertherm.
When I was having troubles cutting one inch thick with my hundred amp plasma cutter, they said go 20% slower than book rate because it’s a water table.
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Engineering also told me to go slower vs book, because their testing is all done on a downdraft table.
I guess my specific question was to 3/8" aluminum, how slow someone is running it with their 45XP.
Do you have enough to do little 4 inch straight cuts?
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I would go faster by 5-6 ipm to reduce the dross. On my Everlast, I run around 27 ipm @ 60 amps
1.2 second delay. Use Mig gel on the cup of the torch. Almost zero dross, but with nitrogen, not air. Like @Sticks said, do some straight line cuts with a pierce, not an edge start.
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Great. 141v and 36ipm. Hypertherm math says 28.8ipm for water. @Bigdaddy2166 real world experience says faster, but he has more ass behind his torch.
Need a third input vote.
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If this is a ONE time thing for yourself then buy enough metal to cut 3 as you will most likely screw up 2.
If its for someone else then find a place with laser or water jet and have them do it. It will be cheaper in the long run. My 2 cents.
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I was going to say cut the Outer Perimeter and then drill the holes on a mill
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I like that idea. 
Great point - didn’t want to pay someone to do a job I’m doing for free for a friend though. Had this been a paying customer I would totally run your suggestion.
Just didn’t want to kill the aluminum he provided 
Realistically I’ll just run it myself though because really, I should rip the band aid and cut charts created for other materials as well.
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I finally added a Motor Guard filter to my system today. Even with all of the drying I have on my system, my consumables still showed signs of moisture reaching them. Hopefully this will put an end to that. BTW, I know my bead canister is small but I service it often.
You can see the rest in the background: tank to oil/water sep; to deraille cooler with fan; to copper piping; to HF chiller; and then to the area shown in above pic.
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You act like people look at ‘stuff’ you didn’t intend them to see. 
Now you’ve gone and spoiled our fun!
Looks good Bret.
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