Mine is a flowtech fpdf360ac. It’s noisy also but pumps great.
Have you actually cut anything yet? All those electronics right next to the machine is not a good idea. I wiped off about 1/8" of dust off my cnc controller the other day.
All the electronics are in NEMA type 4 enclosures, so no issue with dust, water or really anything else getting on or around them. I do appreciate the heads-up though, always better to have input verses oversight!
What the hell are you using the water table for, a fish tank? Nice work by the way.
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PlasmaCut recommends recirculating the water table…so I’m recirculating it 
Might as well have some fun with it too!
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what drain solenoid is that?
I got it off Amazon. Here’s a link.
1 Inch Solenoid Valve 110v/115v/120v AC Brass Electric Air Water Gas Diesel Normally Closed NPT High Flow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G1PXOVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_P58pFbRPNP514
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thanks! I found one similar (different brand, same size) over there.
An electric ball valve might be better as it doesn’t maintain power as it’s open as well as generate heat. Just food for thought.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XX2PPGZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
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I am curious as to why you choose to fill through 4 smaller lines in the side, vs just filling back up through the drain?
would something like this be useful for the potential closed tank sludge issues mentioned above?
Or better yet; this? <-- I’m thinking about possibly using 3 of these in series (1000/200/50 micron succession) on the drain to the tank. They look easy enough to purge of sediment when necessary…
Trying to get my shopping list together today. 
@j_cohen03 's system is constant recirculation, right? Not Drain/fill?
do you mind sharing the component list?
@icecactus
The reason I’m using 4 inlets at the back of the water table is so I have more control over not just the fill rate but the recirculating rate too. There’s a manifold on the front that has 5 ball valves that lets me control independently the 4 inlets as well as the bypass line. It gives me more options from a simple fill to independent inlet use to creating a whirlpool in the water table.
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@eimkeith
The system is setup to do a multitude of things, such as a simple fill/drain but also recirculation too. The 4 independent inlets let me have more control over the water table. Everything is controlled by the control box that has 4 switches; main power, pump, drain ball valve & fill ball valve. There’s also a pump bypass valve as well to control fill rates and pressure.
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@eimkeith
The system has the following components;
18 gallon holding tank
Recirculating Pump
3 x Filters (one on each drain and one final)
1” Darin electric ball valve
1/2” Fill electric ball valve
S/S distribution manifold (6 port)
5 x S/S 1/2” manual ball valves
4 x 3/8” S/S bulkhead inlets
Multiple hose barb components
Also the electrical components to make it all work
I’m sure I’m missing something but that the majority of the components I used. Let me know if you have any questions.
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I don’t think I’ll need it for continuous duty, so heat might not be an issue at all, and I’m having trouble finding a 1" 110V motorized ball valve that isn’t battery operated on the “close” function… (2 wire)
I’d just be using this valve for completely draining the pan, not for recirculation, so it would only need to be open for a few minutes at a time and I’m not so concerned about flow rate.
@eimkeith
Understood 
Here’s a 110-230v 1 inch ball valve for around $67 just for your reference:
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thank you!
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what makes you say you should have gone with the 13 gallon tank?