You will have to fabricate small blocks with a threaded 8 mm hole. Very easy.
I tig welded a 1" round to the end of the X
Adjustment bolt to contact it. I also left the Z micro alone. Its not going to be hard.
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I did. But you donāt have too. Just a lot of extra wire to deal with.
I left mine and used them to set the switch. They also make a good visual aid to see what your limits look like after a homing routine.
Tony, May i get the 3d print files for the mounts that you came up with. I am going to order these switches that your and BigDaddy are using.
Fwiw I just bought the metrol limit switches but bought the 6mm body versions versus the 8mm body. $60/ea and all the same specs except for a shorter stroke and smaller diameter. Looking forward to their arrival.
dont forget to set them up so that the machine bottoms out against the frame and not the limit switch just incase the limit fails to trigger a stop
VGT- thank you, Iāll add a stop of some type. I read on the Metrol switch that youre not supposed to fully bottom out the plunger. I assume this is why you made your suggestion?
Does anyone know the wiring diagram for hooking up the limit switches? Seems the black wire is tied into three of the four terminals in the harness? That seems a bit odd to me so Iād like to ask for some direction before cutting and soldering anything.
T
Mine only have two wires. Added spade connection on the ends. Hooked them to the stock harness. Not sure about the three wire stuff. They have Ledās about 3 or 4 inches from the back. I cut mine off to keep everything nice and tight. But, I wish I had left them. It will take a little work and some engineering to adapt to the them. You got thisā¦ Noteā¦ They have worked every single time so farā¦ Hope I have not jinxed myself. 
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Iām considering this upgrade as well as Iām wrapping up some mods to my machine.
I plan to use a fog buster so maybe the sticky coolant wonāt be a problem for me, but the limit switches just seem kind of janky.
Did you guys have to tram in the position of the new switches once you replaced them? I am assuming they need to be in a precise location to ensure the machine homes square?
I see lots of tall about upgrading these but not much described about the process of actually swapping and ensuring squareness so thought I would ask.
The original limit switches probably would work fine. My addition of a spray nozzle to clean up was a limit switch killer. Plus the original coolant supplied by langmuir was like maple syrup. Between me spraying stuff and the maple syrup drying up inside the switches was my problem.
Changing to Fusion 2240 coolant and not spraying the limit switch would have made them last much longer.
The Metrol 8mm units have worked flawlessly.
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Yeah Iāve heard about the sticky coolant - sounds terrible.
Did you have to dial in the position of the Metrol switches to ensure the gantry was square? And if so, how did you do it? Just tram the X axis with a dial indicator and tap the Metrol mounts until it was perfect?
I have yet to power on my machine so am a little ignorant with how that homing procedure gets calibrated.
Used two multimeter and followed original proceedure. This system of adjustment works just fine.
All my parts come out well within specās.
If your making parts for NASA then I might worry about it.
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I just found the video explaining the process - seems pretty straightforward.
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Before you buy new limit switches get with Langmuir support. I heard and not positive but, they have new versions coming out soon.
I did ask them about that right before shipping my machine but they said they didnāt have any updates on that.
I guess Iāll try out the stock limit switches for now and then switch if I need to!
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As long as you donāt spray them with coolant you will be ok. The misting system sounds great.
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Finished the install for y-axis switches. Very simple. Had to make a new adjustable trigger that measured 1.0625ā diameter. Thats about as big as you can go without hitting the shaft collar on the drive motors.
The LEDās made adjusting the stops an absolute walk in the park. I highly recommend them. You need to square your x-axis movement prior to adjusting the switches.
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Glad it worked out.
Iāll be sure to post about it once Iāve got it assembled & working!