Ha. Speech to text sucks. That was
Tony, thank you for sharing your experience, your solution and related files. Joel…
The switches were a little expensive, but totally worth it. I hit the home button, watch the lights and thay are always synced.
not that I can think of.
Are things still working smoothly after a couple of months? I almost pulled the trigger on proximity sensors in Feb but held off as I was (am still am) thinking about a linuxcnc conversion. I continue to have reliability issues with the the Y and X switches.
Mine still work great.
I have constant issues with chips getting stuck behind the lever on the LS switches. Thanks @Tony449777 for the files and switch info. Similar to @Bigdaddy2166 I have chronic homing fails due to switch sticking.
Yep, same here. Not sure if it’s chips or just very slightly sticky coolant. I could once in a while get them to work by rapidly engaging and disengaging them by hand, but it’s really annoying to pull the walls off to do it every time. It also makes me very wary of the homing process actually doing what it’s supposed to and not throwing the Y axis off.
Someone in the fb group got these which are a bit of a bolt in solution but still ip67 rated. Not sure on repeatability, I might move to the other solution if I’m not happy with this one.
I use the same switches as Tony449777
I have had zero problems since.
Yes, they are expensive but well worth it.
You will have to fab up a 8 mm bracket to hold them.
I do believe that that the coolant is the primary culprit. My self inflicted spraying of coolant from my hand spray nozzle was
my issue. Not chips. These thing are totally coolant proof. I only use them on the Y and X axis. I left the Z alone.
Make sure you order the part number above. They need to be normally closed switches. If you are interested.
I know that Langmuir says the micro switches are accurate enough. Mine were homing so inconsistently that it was putting my gantry way out of square. If you think about the inconsistency of thier switch, it’s not that simple. There are two on the gantry. So the error can be vast to minimal. Micro switches are designed to reliably open/close a circuit, not be repeatable. They open a contact by deflecting a piece of spring steel. The switches by metrol are designed to be repeatable.
Yeah, I figured for a $30 bolt in experiment, I’d at least give it a shot. I hear you on the ability to introduce error into the system though, pretty easy to get the y-axis off.
if you look online you will find that most micro switches are very repeatable. Although in a dirty environment i would think less so.
I have had chips get stuck under the switch levers but I also have issues with the switches simply becoming unreliable and not triggering at all even when pushed manually. Working them a few dozen times by hand usually gets them to come back… however the triggering distance is also unreliable. I have edited the the f360 post to stop sending the machine to 0,0 at the end of the gcode as this will randomly trigger the limits… which forces a new homing, which usually throws off axises by ~.01".
I have been considering these “chip immune” sensors: https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/sensors_-z-_encoders/inductive_proximity_sensors/12mm_round/dw-as-711-m12-967 but I’m not generally a fan of NO sensors, I have been holding off as I’m still considering a linuxcnc conversion which would allow NC sensors.
Holy poo I have been over in the XR forum screaming about these darn switches. This would probably work on that as well!!
Bigdaddy, I re-read this thread today as I am ready to order 4 of these switches that you and Tony are having success with. You mention to “order the part number above” which is CSK087B-L. And then you write “They need to be normally open switches”. Was the second quote a typo? When I went to order the description says the CSK087B-L is a NORMALLY CLOSED switch?
Sorry for the confusion. That is the correct part number.
They are normally closed . That is the correct part number.
So are the csk087B-L switches that you guys are suggesting simple to switch out with the stock ones? Like are they plug and play or is there some soldering required? And I would need two of them for the y, And one for the x axis correct?