My compressor is going to be about 5 feet from the plasma cutter. I have the tall 60 gallon one from Lowes. What do I need to put between the compressor and the plasma cutter?
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Compressor - Aftercooler (optional) - compressor tank - drying system (either drip legs or refrigeration) - water separator filter - desiccant - sub micronic filter - plasma.
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brownfox put it well. Would also add it would be beneficial to add an auto drain to the tank although not necessarily a part of the air path. Key is having really dry air so an aftercooler with a water separator would be a good way to pull out a lot of moisture right at the compressor.
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The motor guard filter is the most commonly used one right prior to the plasma. I’m not sure what exactly is pictured, we would have to see the specs. Just make sure there is a desiccant in there, then on to the submicronic (motor guard)
Thank you! Here is the link if you want to take a look. Much appreciated!!!
https://www.amazon.com/INDUSTRIAL-REGULATOR-COALESCING-DESICCANT-COMPRESSED/dp/B07Y41DZ75?th=1
And this for the motor guard? Thanks again!
https://www.amazon.com/INDUSTRIAL-REGULATOR-COALESCING-DESICCANT-COMPRESSED/dp/B07Y41DZ75?th=1
Motorguard M-26 Compressed Air Filters, 1/4" (NPT), Sub-Micronic, Plasma Machines (396-M-26) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008C0QDVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_H0H8Fb9NSXP2A
My setup is Air compressor into aftercooler with water separator - tank - regulator - Harbor freight refrigerator dryer - harbor freight water separator - harbor freight desiccant - motor guard m26.
The Aftercooler I think makes a huge difference. It drops the air temp a bunch before it hits the tank and I get like a teaspoon of water every cycle.
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The post brownfox provided is a good one with a couple different aftercooler setups. Here is a previous post for reference with an example of an aftercooler setup and water separator before the air enters the compressor tank. Some people have used transmission coolers as the heat exchanger due to the lower cost. I chose a purpose built heat exchanger in my setup made for compressed air to ensure it could withstand the operating pressures out of the compressor head.
The water separator is right after the heat exchanger and pulls out all the condensed water before it ever enters the tank.
I think Langmuir should offer a complete air assembly as an option. Buy the parts in bulk, put together (or not) and ship with machine so all you have to do is connect your air hose to the assembly. Put machine together, plug into electrical outlet, connect air hose and start cutting!!! Just a thought…
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That would be nice, but there are a few different preferences on air handling and the amount of moisture you’ll be dealing with changes with the climate as well. I haven’t changed my desiccant in a month. I was swapping it daily in the summer.
Langmuir has done a ton to put this tech within our reach. Many jump into this without realizing how much more work there is to do. I had some hand plasma cutting experience prior, so I knew what I was looking at having to do when I got the table.
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Yes, you are correct with what Langmuir has done. Maybe my lazy side was showing… 
I recently got a small handheld plasma cutter. I didn’t know the importance of the quality of air needed. I just hooked it up to my compressor and started cutting… It cut just fine but I have no idea the damage I might have caused.
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Damage would only be to the consumeables. I ran consumeables far too long in my harbor freight hand torch, because I couldn’t tell the difference in cut quality I was so bad at it. But stick it in a machine and you see it quickly.
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So I have decided to go with this. I’m adding a line filter before and after this unit. Am I good to go???
Not sure which specific IR model that is. You want to make sure the dryer can support the CFM demands. I went with particular model for example because it has a nice energy savings mode to avoid the dryer from running all the time. It is more expensive though. You should have a pre and post filter for the dryer loop. I would also setup the dryer loop with a 3 valve bypass if you can. It’s a nice to have 
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Also, it is recommended that there be at least 25 ft of pipe between the compressor and the compressed air dryer. The needed feet can be part of the after-cooler pipe which weaves back and forth. You want the compressed air to be cooled down to make the compressed air dryer more efficient. I have about 40 feet of 3/4 inch copper pipe between the compressor and and compressed air dryer. My air compressor is on one side of the shop and the compressed air dryer is on the other.
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Does the pipe have to be copper? Can it be black pipe or even 25’ of hose?
Copper is much better in my opinion as you don’t have to worry about any rust build up that you can get in black pipe. Black pipe is also much heavier. Copper is also good for heat dissipation. Downside is you have to learn how to solder but that is easy to learn if you haven’t done it before. There are a lot of people using black pipe without issue. You could also go with the aluminum pipe(rapid air) and quick fittings but that starts to get costly.
I went with 3/4” type L copper after considering all options. Really happy with that decision so far and it was really satisfying to build the system the way you want given all the variety of copper fittings available.
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Hey Everyone. Table built, yeah! Working on my air system. So far I have a 60gal 11.5@90psi compressor a trio type regulator, dissecant , water separator, a Motor Gard M60 (it has 1/2 pass through pipe) and 1/2 in tubing reduced from 1 inch coming out of the compressor. Everything I read and thought I understood says make sure you don’t restrict the air flow. I chose 1/2 piping for my setup as at our PSi and length of pipe there isn’t any advantage of anything bigger it will move the amount of CFM just fine. Ok, now I am at the outlet side of the M60 the whole thing from the compressor being 1/2. Then I am supposed to reduce that down to something that will fit a 1/4 NPT air fitting that fits the Razorcut 45. After all that work to make non restricted air available, I need to reduce to 1/4. Will that affect the air flow significantly? Was all the 1/2 stuff all the way to the MG60 needed? Should I change out the MG60 to a MG26 and reduce before the MG26? Thanks for any advise. BTW, I got my table boxes over the last month. It took me 4 nights to assemble, still don"t have my Razorcut45 yet ( I ordered in November) anyone else in the same boat?