Here is a pet memorial I did last night. 1 inch depth of frame, coroplast backing. Cut in 16 gauge with smart LEDs arranged around the perimeter. there is a video link of it in action at the bottom of this post in red.
Video of sign illuminated
Video of sign illuminated
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I had some 1/8th inch aluminum lying around so designed this to use up the entire piece. I quickly realized that I almost goofed as I barely had room to hook the work clamp in the corner and clear the torch holder… 
I had to guess at the settings, since I didn’t have enough to test and do the piece, but I got pretty close. I think I could have set the speed a little higher, the cuts are a little rough on the inside. And I’m thinking about making some sawtooth slats. Every time the cut crossed a slat the dross would really pile up.
As far as the design, the borders look a little out of balance. I think I should have left a little more material on the left and right, or brought the top and bottom in a little closer. I think my skills lie more with function rather than aesthetics, but I’m learning.
And yes, I’m my own worst critic. 
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Everyday seems to be a learning experience for me. I think it looks great!
when you say you barely had room to hook the work clamp…do you mean ground clamp?
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The proper term for it is “work clamp”, since it is actually the positive cable for the plasma circuit. It is not really a ground, but everyone defaults to calling a ground clamp.
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I’ve had no issues with simply attaching the clamp to a table slat for small pieces like that. In fact, I’ve accidentally left it attached to the gantry arm, a few times, and it still cut just fine.
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you can hook it on the slats in the water. you don’t need to hook to your metal or piece your working on is why i asked. i have heard people say they hook under the table to drain but i just hook on slat in the water and works great.
The main reason I put my work clamp on the material being cut or the “work” is that it’s part of the circuit the plasma cutters creating. And if you add in a water pan and the gravity connection between your material and slats it alters your resistance of that circuit. Even cutting chunks off the material will start changing the least path of resistance the circuit has to take. Meanwhile you have a torch height control unit that sensing voltage so if you have a circuit run it constant amperage and the resistance is changing then there’s no choice but the voltage of that circuit to change. All I’m trying to say is it gives you your best accuracy measurement for your voltage on your torch height control to only include the work in the circuit. If you include slots and the water table then you have two connections in that circuit that are just reliant on gravity. But yeah it will cut fine 99 percent of the time its a variable you don’t need.
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Plus I only had the one piece, so I was trying to eliminate any excess points of failure.
The sawtooth slats will last a lot longer and will have less water splash when torch is cutting,
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I came up with this few hours ago for small signs. I posted it on file share if others want to play with the design and improve. The tabs are there to center the top and bottom metal and you just tack weld those areas. Round would look better but did this in 30mins so made it easy on me.
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Very cheap diy desiccant holder made from fire extinguisher. I do not suggest you follow my example. You are creating a modified pressurized vessel that could cause injury or death if done incorrectly. That being said, here is what I did as paying 450 bucks for a decent sized desiccant dryer wasnt in the cards. It holds 2 1/2 quarts of beads.
Cheap DIY desiccant holder video.
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So, you are willing to risk your or someone else’s eye site or life over $450???
I’m confident in my weld, fire extinguishers such as this one are pressurized to 195 psi. Upon further research their burst pressures are anywhere from 350 psi up to 750. I dont know what their burst pressure is rated at but its well above what my air compressor can put into it. I run 125 psi to this point. I have seen those store bought desiccant holders fail in the past. I have more confidence in that fire extinguisher than I do the plastic housing of the one on the right. The amount of pressurized air in the vessel is actually fairly low as well due to the interior being mostly filled with desiccant beads. Out of everything in my shop…this is way way way down on my list of dangerous concerns.
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Best to hook directly to the piece, at some point as slats get cut up and nasty you will have a issue
you did not look very hard mine is huge and was $200 and came with beads
i just got me one of these few weeks ago and very happy with it. @ChelanJim shared the bracket holder in the file share. i cut and fit perfect.
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do you have a link to it?
I think this is the one I got, and I see a smaller one here for more
Plus you get 10% off if first time buyer. If you need me to I can make certain this is the model I got (the one at very top).
If you get one make sure you unscrew the sight glass and stick some media inside of it.
I also added a Wilkerson M28-04-CK00 Air Filter with MTP-96-648 Filter That i found on Ebay.
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Man, I’m glad I’m not the only one whose done that. I’ve got a burn ring tatoo at the end of my Y-axis where I’ve left it there several times.
Edit: I have visited Japan many times through my job. Here is something I learned riding the trains there. I am using this to check my necessary conditions before hitting start. Laugh, but it works.
Pointing and Calling Japanese Safety Standard at Railway Companies & Toyota (HD) - YouTube
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