Aside from water draining down from your air dryer, I would also opt to remove that extra regulator.
Otherwise, looks like you’re good to go.
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Yeah i ran a tube down from the water trap in the refer to a catch bucket. I depressurize the system after I’m done every day. That (is supposed to) lets the water drain down into the catch bucket. That’s why I took the water trap out of it and clean/checked it.
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There is only one regulator on the system. Ther rest are traps and dryers
Well besides the one on the plasma. But I need another one to regulate air to the other tools
Popcorn fart dry
I know you have a lot in it already but one more pressure gauge at the inlet of the plasma cutter.
I’d be very interested to see what kind of pressure drop you have across all that gear and hoses.
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This is what I’m fixing to have to upgrade to. Realizing that there’s no way I’m going to get to dew point temps using ambient air over my intercooler in order to drop all the moisture out. I’m going to need to do some kind of refrigerant system. Tired of burning swirl rings onto my electrodes.
Do the HF dryers run off of 110v? What kind of current do they pull?
110 outlet, and you have to supply your own cord.
Haven’t put a clamp meter to it but it runs fine off a circuit I originally dedicated to my air compressor.
Only asking because my garage is quite limited on the available outlets, and I already have the compressor, lights, and my deep freezer on that circuit.
Guess I may need to drop some more outlets on a new breaker if I go this route.
I should add - I wired it in as a dedicated circuit originally meant for a large drill press and/or something else.
It’s a 20 amp breaker and since I accidentally got into CNC, it ended up being dedicated to my 110 air compressor. The HF air dryer is also connected to that same circuit.
yeah I took a 12/3 extension cord from Harbor Freight that was on sale and cut 20ft off of it and wired it in. It was very easy. I haven’t measured the current it pulls, but it is on a 15amp circuit with my air comp auto drain and a couple of other things, and it is running fine.
I spy on your thread from time to time. Looks like your air system is coming along. The best thing I found getting dry air was a automatic drain valve. I know they’re overpriced, but I bought a tsunami automatic drain, and I swear it’s made night and day difference for my air quality.
I also use the Rapid Air Maxline system, and I really love it. It’s easy to plumb your line to trap/direct water, and there are these little drops that have drain valves in them.
I also find that the less hose I use the better, but have a minimum distance of 30’ from my tank to my main prep.
Still figuring everything else out, but just wanted to share some advice that helped me get my air straightened out.
Best of luck!
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I could not find the plate on mine. It might be hidden inside. On the outside and the literature it says it uses a 1/4 horse motor.
So it is really not pulling much amperage: No more than 6 amps when it starts.
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I appreciate the advice.
One of the first things I installed was the tank auto-drain. It does really work well. I think I got a cheap one on Amazon. I ran pex from it to the catch bucket. I have it set on 5 sec drains every 20min while the HF dryer is running.
I probably should have done the Rapid Air system. The lined tubing would make me feel a little bit better than the pex lines. But honestly, I just love the convenience of using pex. None of the pex connections have leaked… NONE! It is nice to have something that just works the way it is supposed to.
Here are my consumables after 300 pierces
I would say not great. I still see some swirling on the electrode. What do you think?
What do your desiccant beads look like?
And not just the indicator when you pull apart the actual container and dump the beads out , what do they look like?
And depending on how much restriction you have your compressor could be running very hot and you have such a short small line between the compressor and the refrigerated air dryer it could swamping it. If you look in your manual there’s a very specific inlet temperature range for a refrigerated air dryer.And every bit of temperature above this you can start derating the effectiveness of your refrigerated air dryer significant.
Did you ever install a gauge at the plasma inlet so you can check for pressure drop?
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Here is the secondary desiccant. After the 1qt desiccant
I didn’t install the gauge. I got one, but I need a little manifold to put it in between the plasma regulator and the quick connect.
Here is the line from the filter to the plasma. This is 1/2ID hose. Probably 20ft. Could that be it?
It was 15sec for about half of those 300 pierces. I read one of the other threads talking about the post flow and changed the setting. I wish the Everlast wouldn’t default to 10sec. I switch my 50amp extension cord between my welder and my plasma fairly often and i forget that setting.
Sheesh, that’s really bad.
Whereabouts are you located? You and I are running the same air dryer but my compressor is significantly smaller and less powerful (110v and only 25 gallon).
As far as the cutting tip and electrode goes. The cutting tip don’t look that bad. The blackish on the out side is from getting moisture on it and its corrosion. Its not over heating as there is still a lot of clean copper color. Now the electrode and the inside of the cutting tip, that is caused by moisture. I don’t know were its coming from but you are getting a lot. The electrode as far as wear looks good and its not over heating as there is still a lot of shinny chrome on the back side and threads.
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Gosh George…you are like CSI Langmuir Forum!!!
I think you earned a hat…wish I had one for you.
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I’m in Baton Rouge, Louisiana area.