You can use it as a remote to your computer to move the torch in FireControl. Page up/down moves the torch up and down. “2” moves the torch/gantry in the -y direction, “8” moves the torch/gantry in the +y direction and so on. That way you can get your torch where you need it over the spot of metal. Notice the arrows on the number keys.
Oh, I see my friend Eric has already answered. Good show!
Craig, @holla2040 here is a topic that discusses and gives links to the silicone bowl:
Edit: On that thread, the first link takes you French Amazon site and the item is a silicone mug. I would imagine it is more durable than the silicone funnel that is also referenced.
Edit #2: After cutting a bunch of 14 gauge aluminum last week, it makes me think, something like this would be worth trying. Since the title of this thread is [Tools and devices I have tried that work], I can’t really say that I have seen this work.
holla2040, I do not. Just found it hanging on an endcap one day. It has since worn out and I am now using a “pinch bowl”. Not quite the same coverage but much more durable.
Maybe I looked right over it, but has anyone tried using a bluetooth connection between the control box and their laptop? To avoid using the USB cable? I see some of you use a bluetooth keyboard for jogging, but I’m wanting something to allow full firecontrol… control…
But you don’t have to get that complicated. If there was a way to direct the table from wireless means, I would be concerned of chances of lag in the signal. Sometimes you really need that hard connection to eliminate issues.
Since those coupling nuts are out of stock on amazon, these are what I used for my table. Far better material (esp for the threads) than the ones that ship with the table.
You’ve chosen the Stainless Couplers, where as @apynickel identified the Steel ones. The Max Torque for the Steel ones is almost 3 times the Stainless, plus the Stainless is almost double the price.