I can overlay the PLA+ 3D printed test piece and it’s almost a 100 percent match in size. Very close.
The pins are undersized 1.25 inch, Fits prefect on the front where it was an outside cut, the holes cut slightly undersized with a small amount of bevel. Holes and front fork were sized to 1.25 inch. No issue, I still have to bore out the pin bushing for the top plate (was machined) so a quick pass with boring tool and that should be fine.
I’m really pleased they cut out great in one go. Had just enough good 1/2 steel plate to cut three bottoms. I could mess up once before having to get more 1/2 inch.
Thinking this experience over, the cut60dn seems fine for steel < 1/2. While the actual cut on 1/2 is clean, the heavy underside dross is disappointing. For kicks, I might rig up the original hand torch and see what that does.
I’ve been searching youtube for 1/2 steel being cut. Checking out undersides. The best cuts seem to be using Hypertherm cutters. Next to zero backside dross even with > 1/2 inch. Nice dross free zero on them. Others have varying amounts of backside dross. The tips of the Hypertherms seem to have an advanced design. The hynade tips are very simplistic.
I should start the crying now and get a Hypertherm, sort of just rip the bandaid off principle.
If the underside dross comes off easily, I would have a hard time spending the money to upgrade just for that small benefit. Now if you are going to cut 1/2 plate daily that might be a different story. Now if the cutter you have takes a crap, then at that point I would give more thought to a Hypertherm
Looking at the spec you posted it should be able to cut faster then 5ipm. I use the Primeweld Cut 60 and the output specs are identical (except the air required) to the ones you posted. I’d be interested if it’s actually putting out 104 volts at 60 amps.
I have cut 1/2 and am not getting anywhere near the backside dross you are getting using the settings I posted above.
There has to be something you could change to improve your cuts if the cutter meets the published spec.
I do find it odd that all other cutters call for 5-6 cfm and the hynade is less than 2 cfm.
I don’t generally go against a manufacture recommendation but I have a hard time believing that <2cfm is sufficient.
Maybe consider upgrading your air and air drying before spending the $$$ on a different cutter. You will need more air to run the hyperthem anyway so why not start there.
That being said you can’t beat a hyperthem eventually I’d like to get one.
The 2 cfm is for the PM60 torch. The PTM80 is much higher, closer to 5-6. I kept an eye on air pressure when compressor kicked on. Compressor had no issue keeping up when cutting and was actually filling the tank, much slower than normal but defiantly filling as the tank pressure was creeping up from the turn on point.
Maybe I’m just a moron (never can tell ), increasing air pressure just did not help much. It’s like the 60 amp is not really 60 amps. Would be fun to measure. One comment I see says that cut60dn is more a 45A cutter than 60A. Could be they skimped on their design (or copy).
I’ll keep an eye on FB marketplace and other places for a nice hyperthem.
It would be interesting to measure the output of both current and voltage.
I have seen some people speculate that some of these manufactures overstate the amps they are putting out, but if you look at the specs considering the output voltage the hypertherm is generally puts out 30-35% more watts than the cheaper brands because of the higher output voltage.
Its likely they have made the comparison because the output wattage of a hypertherm 45 vs your CUT60 are similar.
Reading your posts, you seem to understand all this stuff better than I do so I don’t need to tell you that watts not amps are the unit of power for electricity. W=VA
Here is the comparison based on rated power between a Hypertherm 45 amp machine and your machine. I also included the rated power of a 60 amp Hypertherm for perspective.
I happen to look up this manual for another reason the other day and I thought I’d post it it’s a requirements. It falls in line with most products out there.
5scfm
sdavilla, I have the Hynade 60 also. I felt that the internal regulator was a restriction, so I removed it altogether. I don’t know for sure as I haven.t cut 1/2 in yet but it did make a big difference for 3.8 in. It sounds like more volume of air is coming out now. I set my regulator to 70 psi and it doesn’t fluctuate as much as it used to.
6 cfm. I also removed the external air regulator (just in-case) and used my house air regulator on the wall. The external is much, much better than the internal. Both are same model number, very different cfm behavior. lol. My Hi-flow husky (HomeDepot) air regulator on the wall is even better. Free flow with front panel disconnected is 8+ cfm, I’m pegged on the flow gauge.
No joy poking at air switch. Can’t see a good way to open up the orifice. No joy with google ether. Nothing that really tells me the different models (SYMC STG2321-08) with respect to orifice.
Looks like air fittings and airline are restricting air. What size is your air supply line to cutter?
You want at least 1/2" airline to cutter and 110-120 psi air supply to cutter.
pic of my set up 3/4" from air tank to first filter then all 1/2" fittings through rest of filter system.
Sure, 1/2 all the way is better than 3/8 but I tested max cfm with air switch removed (see previous posts) and venting inside the cutter. The air plumbing setup can deliver at least 6+ cfm to inside of the cutter and hold better than 60 psi easy. This is actual measured rate with a quality flow gauge. The restrictions are after the inside cutter air input (air switch, front connector, torch lines, etc).
1.6 cfm ~= 45 lpm which matches the “air flow rate” in the manual. I’m getting the impression that while the cut60dn/PTM80 “can” cut 1/2 steel, the cut rate is much, much slower than higher quality plasma torches. Heh, it will cost me $3k to find out. LOL.
To add to all the info on the Hynade plasmas
I have the cut 80 and I’m a electronic tech and have disassembled the cut80 and have analyzed the circuit and construction quality including parts used and can say after seeing the insides of the cut 60–they are completely different inside with the cut 60 looking way less robust, not that it didn’t cut the 1/2" but looks like it is at it’s end of capacity on 1/2", the cut 80 has a higher output current and voltage and is a better match for the 80 amp torch, look at the reviews on amazon on the cut 80 and you will see a guy who cut 1" without dross–so don’t discount the Hynade cut 80 for thick stuff !
The original poster is trying with some success to use the 80 amp torch with the 60 amp plasma, I’d try the Hynade cut 80 before paying 3K for a Hypertherm !!
