South Central Indiana noob says Howdy!

No problem, @Knick, its one of the reasons I’m here. To share info. I won’t let the fact that you knew it all along detract from the pleasure of my teaching moment. :wink:

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I knew my condition had a name!

Good news! Box 3 was delivered today. Yay!

Bad news, I’m out of town until Friday… Boo!

Ah well, I’m still waiting on the replacement bearing flange plate before I can proceed anyway. I’m thinking that I need to go back over the Y-axis bearing adjustments, I’m not sure I left everything loose that was supposed to be loose while I did it. OK, yeah, that might be an excuse to extend the build time. While I do want to finish so I can cut something, I am enjoying the build process tremendously.

That’s it for now,

Cheers everyone!

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I had a rare two day weekend, so I was able to get 99% finished.

Short of putting water in, it’s ready to go.

Of course that didn’t stop me! I had a scrap piece of aluminum, so of course I had to try it. After getting my pierce delay figured out I was able to make a couple of 3 inch straight line cuts. 33 amps at 100 ipm seemed to cut great. The Titanium 45 has 100% duty cycle at 33 amps so I plan on using that setting as much as possible. I’m excited to get some water in it next weekend and do some serious cutting.


Do yourself a favor and run at 45 amps, you will never hit duty cycle on the Titanium machine. You will have better clean cuts at machine full amp output.

Cut this .080 aluminum on my XR w/Hypertherm powermax 45 xp at full 45 amps cuts are clean.


Whatever you did to your thumb nail looks like it probably hurt at the time!

I take your point, and that may be where I wind up. The plans of mice and men…yada yada. I do plan on doing a series of tests to see where my particular machine’s sweet spot is. That said my intended projects will be fairly complicated with lots of intricate cuts, balanced out by being mostly on sheet, maybe 16ga, so a fairly fast cut rate. Being new to this I’m not sure how long the cut durations of something like that will be, so I plan on being conservative until I’m more comfortable with it.

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If you or anyone you know can TIG weld the tray seam, do it now before you ever fill the table. Mine leaked and many others have as well. I ended up TIG welding, still had a very small leak.

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I bought my machine about 3 years ago and all i did was use Seam Mate between the pans. I did not spare any either. Did not tighten the bolts all the way and let stand for 24 hours and then wrench tightened the rest of the way. No leaks yet. If you over tighten the bolts right away, you can squeeze most of the sealant out that can cause leaks.


That may be what me and others who had the same issue have done.

A good TIG weld should be forever in this situation. Still likely the #1 option.


First non-straight line cut!
I designed this up quick in F360.

1 inch square with half inch circle.

Corners are square.

I used a 0.2 overlap on lead-in and lead-out, with an arc radius of 0.125 inch and a 90 degree arc. In the overlapped area it actually left more material on the part, which was the opposite of what I was thinking it might do. I figured it would eat away extra material, not leave more. The material outside the cut was straighter than the part… I did disassemble the torch head and reassemble it some weeks ago, I wonder if I put the swirl ring in upside-down. It’s tiny and looks like it could be installed either way.

I assembled the table per Langmuir’s instructions, and the only leaks I have are in the drain system. I think I had some joints that were starved for glue, and the nuts on the drains needed to be tightened.

I bought a few dxf files off etsy and was going to use one in sheetcam. I had requested an evaluation license last month and only installed it today thinking that the 30 day wouldn’t start until it was installed. Nope! It was apparently dated inside the license. Oh well, I’m going to buy the license for it, it’ll just have to wait.

That’s it for now,