NTK FabWorks table setup with drain tank and Hypertherm wiring explained

Yessir. Jody sells a quality product, that’s not some China made garbage.

2 Likes

Im confused. What is the point of the zip tie on the trigger if you are moving the 6 to 8 terminal.

I am trying to figure out a way to do this so I can use my torch for both cnc and also by hand.

The trigger is a switch, a switch interrupts/connects a wired connection. Switching the wire in the connector “tells” the machine that a machine torch is attached, which doesn’t have an interruption in the internal torch wiring(trigger). So by zip tying the trigger, the connection is always made inside the torch, essentially making it a “machine torch”.

Clear as mud?

So if I get a 45xp with the cpc port and a machine torch will I still have to do any of this or tap into any wires or will I be able to just plug it right in and run it on my table?

Only thing you will need is a cpc cable to plug the torch firing wires to your plasma machine. If you plan to have your machine right next to your control box, you really just need the connector and pins(and tool) and put them right on the wire included with the crossfire, they’re actually pretty long.

The plasma will know that a machine torch is attached, via the pin locations in your plug.

Awesome! Thanks for the reply. That makes complete sense.

hi, i just purchased an xp 45 with cpc port and cpc cable with my machine. Which wires do i connect to the Langmuir table? I think its the green and black acording to the Hypertherm book? Any info would be great.thanks

3 & 4 on the CPC port.

3 is the furthest to the left on the top row and 4 is the furthest to the right on the second row (when facing it mounted in the CPC socket).

I found the cable on allicdata

The words “switch battery life” are interpreted as on and off. It also refers to an electronic component that can open a circuit, interrupt a current, or cause it to flow to other circuits. The most common switch is an electromechanical device that operates, with one or several electronic contacts. The “closed” contact indicates that the electronic contact is conducting, allowing current to flow; the “open” of the switch indicates that the electronic contact is not conducting to form an open circuit, and no current is allowed to flow.

Great post, two questions:

  1. Do the 75° and 15° torches use the same consumables?

  2. Does the 45xp package that comes with the 75° and Machine Torch only remove your step of moving the pin in the torch handle?

Thanks!

  1. Yes. Pretty much all the duramax torches use the same consumables, only the nozzles change. With nozzle changes, comes shield cup changes. Gouging and marking tips all interchange as well.

  2. Yes. Because it’s actually the machine torch, there’s no trigger.

Ok thanks for the quick response. Hypertherm’s literature that noted the 15º use toward gouging had me worried that It may use different consumables.

I am using the pin removal tool you listed on amazon but i am having difficulty. Just to be sure do I insert the cylinder of the tool in from the outside? How much force is needed?

Is it possible to rewire this from inside the plasma cutter?

Also is the alternative to this to put on the vampire clips that langmuir provided to close the trigger circuit?

Thank you

1 Like

Wow, I can’t believe I have had my machine so long sitting in boxes in my shop, and finally assembled it this weekend. I wanted to take the time to thank NTK. I just ordered up my CPC port items on Amazon, and of course, I got the incorrect pins. Using this amazing thread, I ordered what I need from digikey. Thank you. With any luck, this weekend will be my first test cuts! I did the pre order in march of 2020, and have had everything here since end of August 2020. Life got in the way. Making time NOW! Thanks again NTK Fab!

2 Likes

:rofl::joy::rofl: Don’t feel bad. I did the pre-order (batch 1) in Sept. 2019 and received all of my packages in March of 2020 and I am still putting my CrossFire Pro together. Work is taking a lot of my time and I am also doing some mods to it.

1 Like

It is amazing how life has a way of doing that. I did not have much of anything going on when I ordered, and as soon as I received the last parts needed to assemble, everything became super busy with home, day job, relationship… Then it just got arranged on my shelving, and I totally forgot about it. I should have the last parts to make the CPC port connector today, I am heading to the local metal supply right now to get some flat stock, so I hope to make my first cuts today. Going to start off making the L square benchy with the different size holes, to test the tolarances and make whatever adjustments I need to make. Might also get what I need at Home Depot to set up a decent drain tank with pump. I may even start my own thread on it showing the first fire up. :slight_smile:

2 Likes

@ntkfabworks Just know this post is still helping people! Just upgraded to the HT45 with the 15* and I got to use book settings for the first time ever and it was incredible! haha Thanks for the writeup.

2 Likes

I broke my pin off the torch cable trying to remove it, any photos of the original pins so I can order some? Still have a broken off pin in there, might drill out. The look like weather pack connectors but not sure? Going to post more details in torch wiring section shortly.

It’s an AMPhenol (TE connectivity) pin. I highly recommend the AMP 305183 extraction tool (https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/te-application-tooling/305183/15640) instead of the Jonard one as it does not seem to damage them like was the case for me.