MR-1 build with mods

This is going to be my build with a few addition or modification. Nothing really set in stone tell the concrete gets poured! To start of I find that any floor space becomes a junk pile. Under the MR-1 is a lot of potential for thing to pile up. Solution which also helps with organizing tooling other bits is to build a tool box into the bottom front!

This will add a little more height than I want, has I plan to build a skid for a pallet jack. I know in the next year I will need to move this behemoth!
I plan to cut the bottom corner of the tool box to lower it done some has it just a little to tall on the 4x4s.

The second addition is a third base plate. I order the extra base plate with my machine.

My thought was it would give and increase to work holding/support and when the 4th axis comes out I should be able to leave it mounted in this area. I did not think of this at the time but was happy some one else brought up flipping the X axis around 180 to face backwards. This should let me surface the rear plate to match the front. The one issue that was pointed out when I originally asked about getting the third plate was interference with the cable pole. I setup the two plate with the install jig to figure out where they sit.

Yep it hits the pole. Could just slide all three forward a bit to clear, then the light bulb turned on! Move the pole to the back side!

Still thinking I want to make the pole removable so that when I surface the rear plate I do not have any issue between the spindle housing and the pole!


Cut the pole off close to flush after you’re done with your concrete/epoxy then plug weld in a piece of tube or bar that fits inside the existing pole. Then its removable and it can rotate

I think I have a simpler solution. I got the enclosure so I will just build a new way to manage cables attaching to the top of the inclosure and discard the pole completely.

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as another person who just bought that box. i am looking forward to see how you get it all mounted up.

Ran out of gas for the welder so still have some welding to do.


Very nice. Well thought out. Where did you move the drain lines too?

The fronts I just shorten the run to clear the tool box. May need more hose to get back to the tank. The rear is the stock setup.
I am think of adding two 12inch flush shower drains either side of the build plate. My think is to add a filter tray under neither and allow the chips to be washed down. This would be a future mod once I finish the build and start using the MR-1
Add the last pick just for visual of 3 build plates!


Switches over to 24 inch shower drains on each side. Poured the concrete yesterday! I am sore today!


For filtration look into an aquarium “polishing mat/filter” medium. If you do a big enough catch down below you may not even need those drain covers. The polishing mat material comes in very large cloth folded sheets. Creative expermenting woth it may be worth your time.

It was what I used for catching carbon fiber debris from my router mill which cuts entirely submerged. I 3D printed a large tray that had a mile crate sort of bottom and made 1 of 4 sides low so if the filter completely clogs up the water level would rise and fall out the shortest side. It let me cut the filter material large and lay it down so filter material came up the sides self sealing/gathering.

If you make braces for it similar to how we set the fixture plate you could drop it through a hole so that the thing sits largely flush so it wont over flow.

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Love the drains, unfortunately I didn’t get to you in time to suggest putting them in the back for wash down and pushing the chips to the back and down the drain to another tray with the filter medium that @dividingbyzero has suggested. Wash down would also require the spray nozzle mod others have done.

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The drains do drain at the back of the drain. From the video of machines running it look like the largest concentration of chip build up is along the y rails. That is why I went with the style a position I used. I did think about putting another one at the rear. Has for these drain underneath it was always my plan to put a chip tray with filter similar to how the tormach is setup.
Has for the chips that do not make it down the drain, a simple scrapper to pull the chip that do not go down and then wash down with a second hose like others have done.

Now the weight again for the epoxy to cure!

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Started carriage assembly!


Additional drains would be nice. After a weekend of dealing with the tiny stock drains your location and size is nice.

Grab polishing mat material to line it with and probably make clean up/out a breeze

Powered on the xyz tonight was fun to see and hear it moving. Still playing with where to mount the control box, thinking inside on the side of the tool box. Mounted the screen and computer but that will get modified with a. Adjustable setup soon. Just sticks out to far and would like to tuck it a away when not being used. Did get a upc to protect the computer and surge protector for the control box. Last picked up this magnetic tray from harbor freight that hold the remote nicely!


Nice job. When I first saw it, I said no way… But its looking great.

Removed the E stop from the control box and put a connector in to remote mount the E stop. The mount the control box to the side of the tool box. Tucked inside the leg nicely and enough space on top for the upc.
Labeled all the connection to make the cable management in the future easier.
Got a new screen mount so when not using it can be stored against the machine and protected.
Last mounted and wired up power switch for the machine with the remote mount E stop from the control box and a power switch for the spindle.


I think moving the E stop will be a must when I get mine. Seen a few people say the on screen one wont work, and I want to be able to actually stop it in an emergency. Wonder if I can chain in a 2nd one vs moving the one they have on it?

You can chain in another one, it is just in line with the power from the power supply to the control board.