edit: this only applies to the Razorweld machine torch, not the Hypertherm torch.
so, getting used to using my Pro… it’s beyond my expectations as far as accuracy of cut, and such…BUUUUT for one thing: i kept getting bevels in the X axis cuts… so i made double sure and squared up every axis i could think of and still kept getting beveled cuts… so i figured the torch was still out of square somehow. i squared up the carriage for the torch, squared up the red holder for the torch and still, it cut off square…then after i removed the lower torch mount to check if the torch was square i found it…
so the upper metal part of the torch is a slightly larger diameter than the lower black plastic part of the torch. this makes it so that when you tighten up the lower torch mount, it pulls the torch towards the carriage out of square from the clamping force (the lower mount needs to be machined to account for this change in diameter offset and the issue would be fixed…Langmuir?)
how i fixed it is: i used this aluminum HVAC self adhesive ducting tape to wrap it around the torch to take up the gap and square up the torch when it is clamped down. now cuts are damn-near perfect.
would be cool to see Langmuir send us out some revised lower mounts for the torch holder…
if it had a wider upper mount then i would think that would be ok, but with the one thin upper mount the torch could end up pivoting as it traversed around the table due to the large inflexable power cable, the lower clamp helps stabilize the torch to the carrier. so in the end, a revised lower mount just for the Razorweld torches would do the trick, the offset from the torch head to the lower clamp block is about 1mm. i checked out the Hypertherm torch and it has a very straight torch head with no ‘step’, so this issue wouldn’t happen to the Hypertherm torches. i have made several cuts since adding the metal tape spacer (it’s layered up to about 1mm thick) and it has made a big difference, with no ill-effects.
No one is suggesting to use only the upper clamp. What we are saying is to move the whole red piece up in the Z axis carriage and use both clamps on the upper barrel of the torch.
I wish that was the option, as i would have moved the mount up and have been done with it… did others get a different mount than i did? is there two different ones, one for the Razorweld torch and one for the Hypertherm torch? pictures attached to show what i mean. FWIW: the upper black plastic part is even bigger in diameter than the metal part.
in the end, i may just end up drilling the mount to move the lower mount up to the bottom of the metal barrel… but Langmuir may want to consider adding this additional hole and including instructions on which mounting holes to use with each torch, then they wouldn’t have to re-engineer the lower mount clamp.
sooooo, i didn’t see the second set of holes…ugh…IR dumb… thanks guys.
just re-read all the instructions and looked through all my documentation, couldn’t find anything anywhere like the pic Mechanic416 posted… am i just missing it?
thank you… ya that woulda been nice to have them link some online setup instructions for the available torch holders… I’m a firm believer that the more information that is provided, the better chance of first time success.
Langmuir FWIW: the back bar mount included with the machine torch setup should be the only one you would need to supply to the customers. it would save you more money not having two separate parts made. right now, my handheld torch holder bracket assembly is just sitting on the shelf, a complete waste of money, whereas if the same back bar could be paired with either of the torch holder clamp bracket setups as they are identical in all dimensions, just it’s not drilled for the machine torches. you could still have the handheld torch clamp included, and if needed just sell the two machine torch clamps as the option- or re-engineer the handheld torch clamp to be able to clamp either the handheld or the machine torches- then the customer would only need to buy one more clamp if they upgrade to machine torch.
I’m pretty sure that everyone that’s running a Razorweld cut 45 with a machine torch has it setup exactly as you have your setup with one clamp on the metal and the other on the plastic. If you search videos of the Crossfire pro with the Razorweld you’ll find this to be true. I’ve found the only way to have both clamps on the metal part of the torch is to flip the clamp upside down and mount it that way otherwise you’ll lose Z axis movement because the torch will be maxed out in the furthermost downward position while the Z carriage will be in the uppermost position. At least that’s my experience. So you may be be on to something there.
