the test print went well now printing a colour version . 5 hrs 45 mins. i had to make it in 2 pieces
edit I had iron all surfaces enabled instead of iron top surfaces now I’m down to an hour and 45 minutes
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Getting closer to a respectable representation.
My gray filament must have had a little moisture in it it’s printing far better now that I put a fresh spool in.
It’s hard to tell but you can see there’s definitely some moisture related texture issues on that top surface. But with a fresh roll of filament it seems to be good.
Still considering printing the whole thing with a point 2 mm nozzle but it adds 4 hours to the print time and swapping the nozzles of big pain on the X1 carbon.
I’m happy with the way the joint worked out in and under the R
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nice touch on the raised lines.
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A matching pair done for the customer.
I think they’ll look good on his boat.
Thank you I tried hard to make this very close to the original with the chamfers, height differences and everything.
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Jim, see, you and I operate on a very similar wavelength…I just don’t pop over here often enough.
I ordered up a roll of that BL ASA-CF right before Christmas, and I’ve been printing with it like crazy.
Those of you who watch my videos may have caught a glimpse of this TIG torch holder I made from it. It holds up just fine to a TIG torch that’s hot from AC welding at 210 amps.
And believe it or not, I actually have it surviving inside the transmission of a 90’s Subaru as the speedometer drive coupling (which failed in the factory pot metal). I used the ASA-CF because I had no way to machine the required 0.100”x 0.400” blind square drive hole to correspond to the cable end. This is an example of the part, though I ultimately re-oriented it in the optimal direction.
That said, I am quite impressed with its Z-axis flexibility. These little tabs snapped instantly when printed from PLA+:
I’m VERY impressed with this material. It is extremely brittle (past a certain point), but I’ve printed 90% of the roll out of the AMS and haven’t had an issue yet…
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What joint?
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Layer lines 90* to direction of load applied.
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Tricky with cylindrical parts that need to be dimensionally accurate, Sticks. Though, the speedo drive adapter I 3D printed as a long hexagon laid on it’s side, which allowed it to print in the optimal orientation and without supports, and then I chucked the hex up in my lathe and turned it down to my diameter spec. And like I said, that part is surviving inside a transmission, cost 10 cents, and took less than 15 minutes to machine.
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Another Kickstarter for some maker world branded electronics for 3D printing product.
Seems interesting
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/makerworld/cyberbrick-beyond-bricks
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That is a good idea!
If anyone wondered why is it important to dry filament before printing. : r/3Dprinting
Here’s a great video that shows why the need to dry filament. You can see the water vapor expanding and getting trapped within the plastic.
I recently purchased a new dryer, sadly I have not taken out-of-the-box yet. We’ve been a little busy with HVAC and metal work Lately.
I was very interested in this but it’s still in a pre-order state. So maybe this fall I will order one of these S2 with the annealing option.
Very cool video on a live flexible TPU hinge for 3D prints.
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Pretty clever!
Some take-aways:
- Good solution for printing the TPU flat on the bed
- Designing a brim piece vs. having an automatic brim that is difficult to clean out later
- He is quite the talker!
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Nice! I have a couple Flashforges Creator Pro. They’re not as nice as yours. And much more limited. I have made some cool stuff though.
I made the board/box with my laser. I wrapped it with veneer so you can’t see the laser cut joints. I dipped the pieces in acetone to make them shiny. Another fun project.
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That’s really nice. How many extruders does it have? Mine’s a dual but I can’t put out anything like that.
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That Tandy shows his age lol. Looks like my 286.
Only one extruder nozzle. It has a AMS automated material system so I can feed 16 different spools in my printer. It takes some time and there’s some filament waste with the exchange between one filament and another but I have been happy with the results.
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Those are some nice chess pieces and board. Some kind of laser cutter engraver is one of the next maker toys I’m after.
Any suggestions anyone?
I have a really big chess set that actually has a couple broken pieces I could remake now that I have my printer. Thanks for the reminder.
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