I just tried out the 60s. I have a hyp xp 30 as well. I must say there are some quirks I don’t like with the Everlast already after using it one day. The failed cuts I’v noticed right off the gate are the “first” cut. I was aware the everlast needed more initial pierce delay which IMO is just minor league quality. I had to ignite the torch bf I started my program. I then had it not have enough pierce on a random piece in the nest. The other issue I have with that is this. Say you stop the program for a multitude of reasons. When you restart, Everlast has the initial issue of pierce delay and thus you miss an important part in your piece. I also blew through two brand new consumables today. Not sure if it was a pierce delay issue or a random clog in tip etc. Tip wasn’t even close enough for metal to clog it up, so not sure on that issue.
The last thing I I don’t like with the Everlast is the nozzle on the torch is so fat it won’t stay in the LS holder very well. Compared to hypertherm it slides right in and can set level very easily. All my experiences today were nothing diff than when I was running my hyp xp 30, tips on that last a long time.
The everlast has a constant fan running and is loud. But…the one and only good thing about my experience so far as I managed to cut my times way down. One cut on 3/16 that was normally 17 min, I got down to 10 so far. Running 60amp at 60ipm on 3/16. however with my two hickups today and changing out the consumables, it felt like I wasted so much time. The one part I had to sift through gcode to restart in proper place for recut. I had a couple ruined pieces today as well, bc of Everlast.
I just read the mach 3 pierce delay issues. I have noticed something a little different between sheetcam and fusion. I have alot of files I still cut from that are from fusion and newer ones I cut from that are sheetcam. I noticed the ones I made via sheetcam had a ton of delay. Not sure which one is correct but I had to cut the delay down in sheetcam from .8 sec to .5 for my thicker materials. Anyway, I’m not sure what to do with the Everlast pierce delay. To go reprogam everything just to cut on Everlast seems almost not even worth it.
All your setting will have to be changed some as you are using 2 entirety different plasma cutters, with different consumables and air settings. More amps mean faster cuts and pierce times. Then you will have to find out what tips/nozzles and air pressure work best with what metals and thickness.
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I can understand that to a degree. I don’t understand how you’d need more pierce time on a more amps tho, seems it should be more pierce for lower amps. At any rate, I can’t understand how and why with everlast you have to prime it so to speak. If i fire it once bf I start program it seems ok. For the most part it can cut the whole run without messing up. But restarts out out of the question for it. I have read somewhere you can set the first cut pierce delay longer then set the others at normal. Seems like more work in sheetcam as I’d need three cut layers, making layer one have cut one and designate a new tool with longer pierce delay. To me if that is how its gonna be, I’ll use it for some stuff and just save up and get another Hypertherm. Unless I’m missing something someone can fill me in on, I’d appreciate it. I have have over 30 diff files I work with constantly. so to have a whole new set just for everlast is going to be an issue for me. My other issue to resolve is why I ruined 2 consumables in short time. I have some tinkering to do and will have to try some programs with longer pierce to see if I can atleast save my consumables.
There is a lot of things that need to be addressed here. What size consumables you are using, what air pressure, thickness of metal, cut speeds, pierce height, etc.
Wrong consumables, wrong pressure, etc, etc, etc will cause all kinds of trouble and eat your consumables.
Even if you buy a new Hypertherm unless its the same one you had you will need to change all your settings any way.
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I go back and forth on hyp fine vs thicker tips no problem. I cut 3/16, and 1/8 alot. some 1/4. Using same programs and settings I can cut 3/16 with same speed with both tips. I typically cut 1/8 with my fine and the thicker tips I cut 3/16 and up. I normally cut with the thicker spacer, 30 imp with the 30 amp hyp on 3/16. I cut production, each sheet I cut has around 100 plus pierces. My consumables last a long time.
now with the everlast 60s. I obviously am having issues. I blew through 3 consumables today. I run the rec 75psi, its the 1.2 tip it came with and I was running 55 amps. on 3/16 I was going 60imp. I cut some 1/4 today as well. When it works it cuts fine, but out of the blue today the tip just fried itself for no reason on an outside parameter cut. I use same off contact on all my tips. I really am having a hard time seeing I’m doing much wrong with the everlast as I was cutting ok on some stuff and then just outta the blue the tip will fry itself. did it 3 times in the coarse of 3hrs. All same settings each time. The torch seemed tight but maybe its moving I though, or maybe I lost ground (ground clamp is a joke, no pressure to it). I just dunno. I would like some feedback on settings. I literally have no confidence with this machine. it can cut fast and good, but with the down time on trying to save my sheets with restarts, eating consumables etc. I just can’t keep using it like this.! here is 1/4 where it just gave out. IMG_1949|666x500
ok so the top pic is the consumables that came with machine. I like the bottom pic and that style better. has anyone used the shielded type?
Well 1.2 tips/nozzles are 60 amp and should work fine at 55 amps and 75psi. The flat tips should work OK and the shielded CNC set should work better in most cases.
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yah I’m gonna try the shielded ones and see if I can’t get better results.
I have noticed some tip blowouts when a bunch of spatter gets on the tip, I’m sure shielded will help, I’m gonna order a set for myself as well
I had Everlast welders and they perform good, how ever when they go down they’re down and no local repair shop unless your located in TN, and the parts are from china. I am still waiting on mine to be fix from their repair shop. That was 45 days ago and they’re still waiting on the parts. I am using a miller 375 extreme plasma and no issues.
I don’t post much on these forums but… I would just like to add my 2cents worth. I bought a brand new everlast 60s. I now only 3 months latter just got my brand new hyper 45xp. The everlast is not very low cost when you start adding up the cost of the consumables. I wish I would have just got the 45xp to start.
Yes I just blew through another tip yesterday on 1/8 in turned amps down to about 46 and was running about 100ipm. for no reason it just blew up, ruined another sheet of material. I am actually fearful of spending 75 bucks on more consumables (for like 6 of them) and tip. I really want to see if I can just send this thing back as I ordered it on ebay for that reason. You get more coverage that way than ordering direct. My first experience when I called Everlast was not good, got a VM from some foreign lady, no offense but I had a bad feeling the customer service would be not so good. I def always regret buying off shore stuff, it just isn’t worth it for me ever. I am def going to get another hyp either xp45 or maybe 65. I’m sure someone can get on here an chime in with good everlast experiences, but to me its just obvious from day one the consumables are trash, granted the shielded tips may be better I need some input bf I go and purchase them bc again I don’t want to waste anymore money or time on this machine. P.S on ebay there is a guy selling tips that says they are made in Italy. Not sure if I believe it. My machine says it was made in taiwan so who knows where the tips were made.
Well my patience is running thin. I tried buying the “shielded tips” from ebay. only 2 sellers I can find offer them. One is in Delaware and you can’t message him on ebay. I tried buying one of the sets and then instantly got refunded. So upon more and more searching I found some from Plasmadyn for about the same price, though slightly diff looking product. The guy from Delaware claims his tips are made in Italy. Plasmadyn def seem like they are made in China. Has anyone had any luck with ordering consumables from ebay? If so which ones and from who would be very helpful. I really don’t want to waste $70 on these but its that or pay to ship this machine back. Its setting here with no tips getting no use, so any help on the consumables would be greatly appreciated. I don’t want to order them from Everlast bc they are expensive and honestly the tips they came with didn’t last. Lastly, Plasmadyn has a product list, he is selling tips rated for 50amp in the kit (I need 60). The Deleware guy has some other kits but they have mixed consumables. I don’t want to spend all that money to only have 2 tips rated at 60 amp.
Go with the guy from Delaware, his name is George, I think his eBay name is mechanic… something or other. He’s actually on the forum here.
Does @gamblegarage have them? He’s super to deal with if he has ones for Everlast I don’t think you’d find a better combination of cost & service responsiveness.
I actually emailed George, looked him up cause the ebay thing just seemed weird. Yeah its an actual shop so thats good.
checked them out, don’t seem to have what I need. thanks for the lead.
If the Hypertherm Powermax65 is only a year old it still has 2 years of warranty left on the power supply (torch is one year). If you get a copy of the original invoice from the dealer, then that is when the warranty starts. Without the invoice the warranty starts a week or so after the manufacture date. A call in to Hypertherm tech service with the serial number can get you the warranty start date.
