looks like a good solution. and from the pic i dont think you will have trouble draining. I bought a cheap harbor freight wet/dry vac and use it to suck up residual fluid and debris when I clean the table.
Dan, just bought the CrossFire Pro and will eventually get this dimple die from you before my table arrives in June 2021… Wondering if you can tell me what size the threaded end is of the drains on the CrossFire Pro tables. I am in the process of getting this together for a drain and filtration system for mine. Really wish I would have done all that with my OG table when I first got it… Let me know
the stock brass drain has an internal thread of 1/4 NPT. I’m pretty sure the external thread is 1"-8
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Thank you I will be getting back to you soon for The dimple die
How much are your dimple dies?
There are at least 3 sets of dimple die being passed around. One is the original one I made and there are at least 2 that have been 3D printed. Go to the following topic
Here you will find a link to a spreadsheet signup sheet to get one of the die sent to you with the understanding that you would then pass it on to the next person in line.
So there is no reason to buy a die.
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I have two sets I 3D printed using resin instead of pla (I have an SLA printer). They haven’t been tested but I’ll send them off to anyone who can use them now so we can find out if they’ll work. They should based on the specs I could find for resin and they’re solid (equivalent to 100% fill for FDM printers) but no guarantees. If you’re in need of the dies and willing to try the resin ones I can send you a set. Didn’t look from the spreadsheet that anyone was in imminent need except Mike Stahl so I’ve got a message out to him but if anyone isn’t in the list and wants to try it, let me know.
James,
I’d be willing to give them a go… But, I’ll wait to officially request until parts start arriving for the PRO table…
They’re yours when you want them. Mike doesn’t want to be a guinea pig.
Resin is quite solid. I was going to sacrifice a set to a torque test but I broke my cast iron vise today - it sheared off the throat channel. I wouldn’t have believed it was possible 
So I think I will have to just go with a scrap piece of steel and drill a hole to test them with. I’ll try to do that tomorrow.
I thought about trying to weld the vise (Tig with AC and aluminum/bronze filler rod) but I’ve only seen it recommended for tabs and things - not the guts of a vise that’ll be under significant strain (like the next time I try to straighten 3/8" square rod using a 2ft extension pipe on the vise handle 
)
Hi dbrub2
I maybe doing something wrong but I cant download the file on fusion 360. can you give me a little more help, thanks
Hey Juan,
If you are trying to use the .f3d file you will have to download it and then delete the .DXF extension. This forum only allows certain file types so we sometimes have to trick it by adding an allowable file extension name. I had to add the .DXF so simply remove it. Also unless you want the Mod1 die for some reason make sure you are downloading the Mod2 design as it is the one that creates the desired flat in the drain hole.
Let me know if you are still having trouble.
Thx. Dan
thanks Dan
i was able to download it in 360, now i have to figure out to tranfer to cura, im new to this programs so is challenging. thank
The resin one worked a treat. I used a scrap piece of 20ga steel. Using a torque wrench, 20ftlbs bottomed the resin die fine. The dimple was nicely sloped and the bottom was flat. No real noticeable wear on the resin die.
The dimple was as good as the ones I remember making a year ago in my pans using a commercial stainless steel dimple die.
Crappy picture but does show the results. The center hole I drilled in the scrap was a little oversized when I started which is why the dimple isn’t centered. I didn’t have a 1" drill bit handy so I used a 1.125" bit and since my vise is toast used a ratchet on the nut and the torque wrench on the bolt. Cinching the bolt in a vise, putting the water tray on top and and then tightening the nut would keep everything centered.
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hi jamesdhatch;
what are the dimension on the cylinder and is its a 3rd part?
almost forgot what % of infill did you ending using 100% or less. Thanks
The OD is 0.615" - it’s the 3rd piece in the STL file that was in the Mod 2 posting. I believe it was so that it matched a bolt he had (3/8"). The ID is sized for a 3/8" bolt. I used a 3/8x2" bolt, fender washers and nut. I think a 5/8" bolt fits tightly without that 3rd piece.
It’s a resin print so infill doesn’t affect print time and the resin it uses isn’t materially different than just making it solid. So for my resin prints I almost always make them solid (equivalent to 100% infill for FDM prints). Resin prints also don’t take any longer if you have 1 piece or a full plate to print. I used standard layer height (0.05mm). It can print at 0.01mm but that’s not needed for this. It’s already much finer resolution than your typical FDM print.
thanks James, I’m printing in PLA at 50% infill right now I will post results latter Thanks
You’ll get less crush resistance but maybe enough for a couple of uses. That’s a pretty decent infill. I think someone else tried 50 and 75% infill.
Well my die didn’t work well I was able to make just a cone but not the flange on the bottom. I going to re print the die at either 75 or 100% infil and I will tried again. I noticed the wall got press out little bit from the pressure. I let you guys know if I get a better luck with the second print. So I can share the dies.
In another note. Is anyone here install the cnc automation kit in the extreme 625. I but one for a really good price but I have trouble installing it. Any help will be apreasiated. Thanks
I’d go with 100% - it won’t be stronger than that. Otherwise you may find 75% doesn’t work and you need to print a 3rd one.
I’m not sure I’d use PLA in fact. If you can you might want to try ABS. That’s what I tend to use most with filament 3D printing. With resin I just don’t bother with infill - always print them 100% because the print time is the same and the difference in resin used is pennies. Not worth the time spent reprinting when something isn’t strong enough.