Thats about the same as i find my best results. I do have an extension cord, but i believe its like 4 or 6 gauge.
That should be plenty heavy enough. The consumables would be my next idea. In my experience his cut the best even better than the ones langmuir sells on website.
I suppose I could try different consumables. I didn’t notice much difference between the Jack and Dave ones compared to the razor weld consumables. Since owning the table I haven’t been happy enough with the results to let a set of consumables go for their whole life to determine a good consumable life, usually I switch them out to try and diagnose cut quality issues.
I understand I see several saying thesame thing… I ran the devil out of my razorweld with no complaints I have even cut 3/4. I upgraded to a hypertherm 65 not long ago because the razorweld didn’t have the duty cycle I needed.
Just throwing out some ideas, genuine consumables or generics? I have run into poor cuts from poor quality consumables bought on Amazon. Against others’ wisdom, I find that I get better cuts at 1/8" shim offset instead of 1/16". Finally getting the speed just right for the amps, too slow, more dross, too fast more dross. I’m running a Primeweld Cut60 so my settings at torch may not apply to you but it’s worth looking at these other options.
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We’re compiling serial numbers to see where product change happened in the prime cut. If you’d like post your serial number date of purchase and location of the CPC port to this topic and allowed to the list
Those don’t look that bad. With some fine tuning you can find sweet spot. Soak in vinegar will bring mill scale off and help make dross easier to remove. How many pierces are on those consumables?
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here is a little help…
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Less than 300 pierces.
The thing is regardless of cut settings, I usually end up with the same results. If I go too fast it doesn’t cut through on lead in, even with a slowed lead in. Almost everything I cut the pieces don’t just fall out, I have to push them down through and sometimes break them off at the lead in point.
I cut some 1/8" the other day and there was it was showing that the torch wasn’t square left and right. I changed the torch holder and nothing seemed to change.
I guess my biggest frustration is I was doing test cuts where I was at the point I was satisfied, went to cut a bigger project with the same settings and it cut completely different.
I’ve looked through these, it just seems regardless of what settings I use I still don’t get good or consistent results. I never feel comfortable enough to load in a file, hit cut and walk away.
I think your cut height is to high . You need to remove the CNC shield and manual measure the gap between the cutting tip and the work piece. 30 amp should be about .045" and 40/45 amp should be .060".
If you were getting bevel and changing the torch did not matter the consumables were bad.
You never start a program hit cut and walk away. That can end up being a very costly mistake.
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I’ll definitely have to verify cut height.
As far as setting the machine and walking away. I meant that as far as not having to babysit every step of the cut.
reading your posts and looking at your pictures…I feel you are at the same place I was a number of months ago…you are rushing perfection…
what I mean by this is when you do cust and it does not come out right is seems you are changing a whole bunch of setting rather that just adjusting one setting and trying again
you need to take a piece of metal and cut a bunch of 6" lines…side by side…
the for each line you cut…you change one parameter like amps only for about 10 lines…
here is an example…read the thread attached
this is a great example of how to fine tune your cutting.
everyone has slightly different results…metal quality, air quality, electrical supply, consumable condition and quality…all these factor into a cut.
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I think that rushing definitely has something to do with it. I’ll read through that post when I get a chance, thank you!
Just a thought on your issue, make sure you have a good ground.
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I always ground to material and periodically clean the contacts on the ground. I haven’t had an opportunity to try any new variables to see if my cuts have improved.
My 2 cents, i have been running my Crossfire table since 3/2019, viper cut 30, consumables from Paul Gamble, amazon and the mother ship. I have been welding and fabricating for 30 plus years, amps are set around 27, speed currently for 14 ga. A36 is at 67ipm, no THC, i know it as slag proper name is dross, will always be present to a degree on 14 ga. , the parts above of you if you drop them on the floor will the slag fall off? if it does you are closer than you think my friend, travel speed is big, you have to take your time and dial it in, if on large jobs, long cuts you see slag increase, you may be losing air pressure. Take and breath and work the problem, do not let the problem work you. sip some good bourbon, smoke a fine cigar, keep calm and cut on. Semper Fi
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Solid advice. I just get overwhelmed with all the possible variables that could be causing my issues and dint know which direction to take.
I have extensive experience in the CNC world, been a machinist and in the machine trade for 23 years. Its been mentioned above but not necessarily in these words, when you are troubleshooting and dialing in a process change ONE variable at a time. I.e. change amperage, air pressure, cut speed, cut height, THC settings, etc. but one at a time. Get your best setting for that variable and then move on to changing another. This way if you solve your issue, you know what you changed to fix it and you understand what a particular change does to the quality of the cut.
Also, if your cuts looked good on a small test but went south on a longer cut you may be dealing with a pressure drop issue. Try your best settings you have developed on a larger piece and watch the pressure gages on the compressor and the plasma during the cut. Do they change as the cut progresses or remain the same? Also, as part of the pressure drop issue, what air line diameter are you running to the plasma? Is it feeding directly from the air tank or through shop plumbing? Try switching to a 3/8 ID air line directly from the compressor to the plasma. But again, make this change and leave the other variables the same if you try it. That way you understand the impact if any.
Chris
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