Air Compressor aftercooler Info thread

Yep, the inverted flare fitting was the toughest to find. A few others just went with standard flare and it seemed to seal up fine.

FWIW the flare degree was probably fine, but the nut was not deep enough on the JIC to seal things up. Overall I got super frustrated with all of the different plumbing fittings, acronyms, slang names, and lack of availability on fittings. Particularly converting different types/sizes, and needing them to swivel.

Flare/compression seems like the way to go with this stuff, so you can keep the line in place, and tighten the nut to secure the fittings without having to twist the lines.

1 Like

Found these add on fins for pipe. They are expensive though. Figured I’d share anyway.

FABTEK CLR-2 Fin Clamp, Chrome

cool…might try and set something up from old HVAC systems from work

Where I ended up with the air system for the garage.


Looks awesome! I have been looking at investing in that eastwood scroll compressor, how do you like it? Also, is that the 3/4" air line tubing that eastwood sells as well?

I am about two years into the compressor now. Absolutely love it, have never had an issue with it, and I run the crap out of it.

Paint, blasting, tools, no issues.

Everything garage-side is 3/4” RapidAir piping. I didn’t use Eastwood for that purchase.

That is what I like to hear! I have a spare 30gallon tank right now so I think I’ll probably add that in line and maybe eventually buy the Eastwood 80 Gallon or whatever that size is you have. Love the idea of a quiet compressor with great CFM. Thank you!

1 Like

The spare tank I have, is the tank from my previous Craftsman compressor.

Definitely need to add an auto drain at the bottom of the compressor, these scrolls do produce a lot of water.

looks great but can you clarify something for me…
if I read the picture right your flow is like this…

  • Eastwood scroll compressor to small tank
  • small tank to large tank
  • large tank through copper cooling system…(really nice job on that)
  • through refrigerated cooler and out to your system…
  • really nicely built with bypass and everything…
    Is this right?

Because the reason I ask is that everything I have read and learned is that you need to reduce the temp of the air coming off the compressor before it goes to any storage tank to prevent condensation inside the tank.
The copper wall cooler should be placed between your scroll compressor and at a minimum
before your 60 gallon reserve…it would be best placed between the outlet of the scroll before it goes to any tank…

Two trains of thought on the subject:

Only store processed air.
Only process air you’re using.

As I use the secondary tank as another source of moisture removal, I fall into the latter.



I just built this, ( haven’t hooked up the fan yet, just drawing air with the big pulley),. Speedaire 5hp compressor. Ambient temp in the shop at Stately Judy Manor is 101 degrees F and 20% humidity. Head temp on the compressor is 306. Pipe entering the tank is 102. I’ll take that.
Brown Fox… Super Genius

1 Like

Could you run the lines back from the crawl space up to your shop? Any moisture will travel with the air flow so it will travel up hill.

You absolutely want to drain at the lowest point of your system regardless of the situation.

I haven’t implemented the pipe array yet, but the lines that are in the crawlspace are long and do condense the moisture. I have a couple of traps down there and the moisture collects there. Unfortunately I do have to go down every now and then to open them - scary spiders! :grimacing:

I have a 0.1u filter before my Motorguard and that feeds the plasma cutter. I haven’t had to replace the filter yet… I keep checking, but it’s still good. I think my crawlspace ‘condenser’ works pretty well. :clap:

One thing I’m thinking about, though, is building an add-on shed that would house the compressor and my dust collector (the two big noisemakers in my shop). I’d have to provide air exchange between the two buildings as I wouldn’t want outside air into either the compressor or DC - it’s too humid and would wreck my conditioned air. In that case, I’d put in the extra effort to add a pre-tank cooler to get the moisture at the earliest opportunity.


Thats a great pic!!!
As far as the drains I would not have any problems running them up hill. This would be just about as cheap and its automatic and you can just run all your drops into one.,_regulators,_lubricators)/air_filters/af2-443-an?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3eeXBhD7ARIsAHjssr9xB7MZJMb8M6BG2GubDppZrQp_CYeMB_Xasg_RXnQep21qfUVkSjMaAk5fEALw_wcB

You could add an electric auto drain and not bother the spiders.

1 Like

There’s no way the moisture would be able to drain if you ran a pipe up. It drains at the lowest point. If it follows the air then why do compressor tanks fill with water?

1 Like

True, and even a float type autodrain would work, but then I’d have to convince the spiders to let me install it :wink:

I’m hoping I can go with the outside shed approach because this would also reduce the noise…

1 Like

The water would travel with the air. Try filling a straw with water and blow through it.
Remember your draining the water with air in the system. Trust me it works

1 Like