I’m just going by the amount of moisture my system kicks out before entering tank. Any moisture keep out of the tank is a good thing.
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I do understand the tank will basically do the same thing as the air cools in the tank. But over time can damage tank if not properly drained religiously.
Also cooler air entering tank will have a chance to cool to ambient temp more then hot air entering tank.
We’re talking in the context of doing things properly.
Yes but in the second scenario it’s still proceeds to another heat exchanger.
Regardless . the tank will be at 100% humidity so it’s hard to be more wet than wet in any of the scenarios. You can’t get more wet then 100%
I’m enjoying flushing out this thought. I know my opinion of having after cooler after the tank is contrary to almost all standards and opinions that exist.
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Ok, I’ll admit your point has some validity.
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The way I see things everyone for themselves. I do have a after cooler between the tank and pump. I think you need a large one or one designed for such applications. I wish I had checked my temps before I installed it. In the process I also changed the motor pulley out of necessity with a smaller pulley. My pump runs slower than most now. It takes 3 minutes to refill 140 gallon tanks I have. I also have a cooler after my main tank as well it also catches moisture on long runs. the amount of moisture you catch will depend on your climate. I don’t remember the compressor head temps. I rarely see the fittings goin into my main tank much over 100 degrees.
On my system I really don’t think I am damaging my pump but maybe. Doing it over I probably would have put both after coolers after my main tank. I really don’t want to replumb my system without honestly knowing I am doing harm to my compressor.
I don’t know about harm or no harm but for sure the air pump will work harder because of the added static pressure If after cooler is between the compressor and the tank.
Also depending on where you locate your check valve you’ll be losing more air cycle . When that section of tubing potentially including the after cooler unloads in preparation for the next ON cycle.
You’re also subjecting you’re after cooler too far more vibration. Between the pump and tank.
And a vast majority of these installations people are using a oil to air heat exchanger for an application that should use an air to air heat exchanger. I find that course of logic really odd.
If you really believe that you wouldn’t be on here every single day trying to help people do it the best way.
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Oh I didn’t mean it like that I meant as far as how you choose to install the after cooler it is a at your own risk thing. It would be a great undertaking to prove one way or another so that is why I said everyone for themselves. As far as my after cooler it is a remote mount with flex lines.
I do agree it will have to put extra load on the compressor. I don’t know how much harm there is because some compressors have coolers between the cylinders granted they are designed for that but you are doing at least half the same thing.
I would move my first one if I ever had to redo my system.
I would like to see some people with and without after coolers report compressor head temps . For what it is worth there are so many different compressor it would be hard to compare.
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The best way to cool the air, is to have a cylinder head and cylinder with water jackets .Add a water pump to circulate coolant through a radiator with electric fan. Air would be a lot cooler as the compressor operates, thus cooler air going to compressor tank.
Thanks for doing this!
I typed a long response… then deleted it… seemed like I was talking in circles.
Seems to me your experiment indicates the aftercooler does more work and is more efficient having it pre tank?
I suppose the only metric that matters is the end result. What is the moisture content and air temp at the end of the line.
One method to observe moisture content would be to go by how long your desiccant lasts?
Even then, with how much the humidity changes in northern utah day to day and hour to hour the end of line moisture content variable could be a moving target anyway.
You could run some day to day tests and change the plumbing between runs. Weigh the beads before and after to see which method was removing the most moisture… pretty rudimentary and allot of unaccounted for variables still.
I look forward to your results and the discussion.
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Hey all
Please no one think I am arguing. This is just information.
Fist off I would not recommend anyone modifying anything unless they are sure about doing it.
So I ran home opened all my tanks I have a 80 gallon compressor and two 30 gallon dry air tanks. The compressor is a 7 h.p two stage that the compressor is 4 years old. My last compressor lasted 25 ish years. No mods during that time. I down shifted the pulley on the motor from a 5 inch down to a 4. the five was damaged so I made one out of what I had.
Any how from a absolute cold start to recharge my tanks the hottest part I could find was the fittings leaving the head which reach 320 degrees as the compressor shut off. I do have a after cooler the fittings entering the tank was 100 degrees.
I am not recommending one or trying to contradict anyone opposed to them just trying to give information the help others decide what to do .
I would like to see someone with a similar compressor without a after cooler chime in.
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Its just a discussion
With equipment we make tests at operating temperature. Run everything for 15-30minutes to the till the equipment has reach a relatively stable operating temperature then reasonable and more repeatable results can be observed.
All these metal components are heat sinks and it takes some time for them to absorb heat.
how are you taking these measurements?
Also the ambient conditions should be recorded along side this data.
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Oh I agree on the on the discussion.
My compressor is a 80 percent duty cycle. That was a 3 minute run that is around 1/3 of the recommended operating time.
My measurements was with a ir thermometer. How accurate is it ?? Good question. my shop was around 60 degrees.
I also keep checking the temp of the crossover pipe which has cooling fins it stayed about the same temp as the output.
I know it has negative effects on the compressor it has to but so does everything else we do not to our compressors just in general.
Run it down hill close to a wall, put a Tee in the line & ball valve. Run a rod up thru the floor along the wall & bolt a lever on the wall to activate the ball valve. Kinda like shiftier linkage on an old transmission or steering linkage to move the ball valve in the room below you. Keep everything mounted solid and it should last for years.
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@Phillipw and @TinWhisperer
I am enjoying the back and forth. It is informative and respectful. Thank you both.
@TomWS As for your drain in the crawlspace: would it be acceptable to reduce the end of the run to 1/2 inch and use a simple 1/2" auto drain like:
or:
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that is what it is about. again i am not advocating puting a cooler between pump and tank. If i was to have to replumb i would probably put it with the other after cooler. i am curious how hot other peoples compressors run
I have a temperature sensor on that same tube you monitored on my HomeDepot Husky 60 gallon 1 phase 3.7 HP motor. My after cooler is a combination of the transmission cooler and my “mission to mars” 100 foot coil of PEX tubing with a 20 inch fan blowing on it. The temperature sensor activates my fan when the temp is above 75 degrees.
The temperature gets to 248 degrees every time the compressor runs after it has rested down to room temperature but when it is running successively without a complete cool-down it gets up to 290 degrees (maybe higher).
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you really do have a impressive setup i thought i did a overkill!!! it rocks man as long as it works.
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So far I have not run it enough to really catch any water. My beads are still blue. But I do notice when I disconnect one of the hoses or attachments, I don’t feel a damp spray like I used to.
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where i live and where my house is i get a crazy amount of water! i run two smaller bead cell filters right now my next upgrade will be one large one… on my long runs on my table which is about a hour long or long powder coating sessions i usually change then out often.
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I am sure I would need to change my if I ran anything more than a half hour. We will see when I retire and get time to dial it in.
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