So why is there separation in the seam in the water table. It’s leaking from the bottom where the opening is. There are 2 spots where it’s separated. These water tables are a pain. Love the machine, hate the table. Think I’m going to have a one piece water table made!
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What table do you have? I have no idea why it would do that on the seam unless there was rust forming, but even then I would not think it would spread that much. Unless you bought it 10years ago and poured road salt in it.
My XR is over two years old and mine has never leaked
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@justgregg Is this the same water table you have been having issues with?
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If it is, I can sympathize. Been there, done that.
I would concur with the others in the linked thread, just have one made. SS is nice, but not necessary.
I had a one piece made up out of mild steel with an additional length from front to back, and left to right 1/4" combined gap to the sides. Less splash. Have a couple brace bends done (the minor dent from corner to corner - don’t know what it is called, but @TinWhisperer will know).
Put a coat of paint on the outside, and leave the inside millscale. So long as you are using an actual Plasma cutting fluid with the rust inhibitors in it, you won’t have any problems.
A “cross brake”
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I agree a new table would be the path of least resistance for your situation.
For any noobs out there reading this,
When I was putting mine together, I noticed significant gaps that needed addressing.
So I got out the “body dollies” and went to work on the seams mating area to straighten them out the best I could.
Could just be luck, but mine have not leaked…yet.
If/when it does, I will TIG it shut and be done with it.
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You answered your own question a year ago! Why are you asking this now???
Shouldn’t blame the table for your mistake. Own it. Maybe you’ll get some help…
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Cross fire pro. Maybe torch getting too hot? Not enough water in the tray?
Okay smart man what was my mistake. Be nice!
No replaced it a yr ago. May have a one piece mild steel tray made.
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After I sealed my water table, I didn’t like having the seam exposed. I just gopped some more sealant on it and laid a piece of 1x1 angle bar on top.
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If the tray is put together correctly, water leaks are not an issue, unless you run with liw or no water over the seam, or Park the torch over the seam with it running.
I put more holes in the field of My Pan. I did have one cut at 100 amp that traveled right along the seam at 9 in per minute and that also caused a minor problem there.
I was able to get that seam leak fixed, but all the little pin holes I put in the field it was a lost cause to even try to salvage it.
Prior to my putting 100 amp cutter on my crossfire pro, I had zero leaks for the entire time that I had it.
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So you’re saying this happened to you twice? Well, aren’t you unlucky.
You have my sympathies…
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You may want to look into doing the stanchion risers for an additional 2 and 1/2 in or so, then get a deeper pan made. Water is your friend if you are trying to control smoke and dust.
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2.25" is as deep as possible without interfering with the Y-axis trolleys.
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@Bigdaddy2166 is that with OEM stanchions?
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Yes it is.
That’s what I thought. So with stanchion risers of two to three inches, then you can get a three and a half inch deep pan. With extra height between the Gantry and the work material.
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I managed to cause leaks along the seam while cutting some 1/2 inch at 65amps and fairly low ipm. I also had some discolored lines on the bottom of the pan where the water was full depth from the same project. I TIG’d the back side & produced a potato chip, but it clamped flat once I was done. Unfortunately I still have a slow leak, so a one piece table is in my future.
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If I were to do it again, I would do that. Two inch not three. But that just me.
My pan has been made and I’m not going to do it again.
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