Water Table pre-operation assembly

Hello new to the forum and family, but happy to be here. I received my table and got through most assembly just fine. From what I read and see, this water table just wont do. Aside from the usual 2 piece construction and drains, I also noticed folks have burn marks on their pans from water displacement. My hold up is that I do not want to sheet metal screw it to the frame on top of its other flaws.

Im looking to Fab a deeper pan that looks like a Fat T from the shorter sides that basically drops in supported by the longer frame rails without comprimising pan integrity by securing to the frame. The drain will be centered and 4-4.5" below the top edge of pan. A channeled pan should theoretically not be able to have much freedom of movement front to back, and side to side due to surface area friction.

Any issues with this idea from a design and system operation perspective?

(Thinking this might also prevent any electrical interference by isolating table from rest of system)

Welcome to the forums.

Yes the flat pack water table is adequate but does leave some things to be desired.

Your most major concern about building a deeper water table is without also increasing your stanchion risers (which are the four brackets that hold YZ and X above the rest of the frame) you will be eating into your overall z height for every bit of depth you increase the water table.

@bigdaddy2166 has recently made a nice replacement water table. I’ll try to find and Link the topic.

I’m not sure what other people are doing burning it but I keep my water table filled right up to the brim when I run my table. And I’ve cut a little bit of half inch plate with 85 amp consumables without any issues. Cutting a lot of thick material (1/2+)isn’t a norm for me.


Sounds good and great info in the reply! Not looking going much higher than stock, but deeper in between the frame that parallels x axis. Going for that channeled low rider pan. (Sketch attached) Ideally just want a drop in pan that has same supports for flats, with no hardware penetration through the table. I doubt I’ll be living much on the edge with my cuts, so table depth there not as much of concern.

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The pan is actually a structural component. Screwing it to the frame prevents the frame from racking.


I’ll take that in consideration. If it does hold it square with gasket washers, I would still have concern with leaks at the screw points. Great inputs coming in, I like to keep thinking about these things to arrive at the best decision.

I’ve got two Crossfire’s going back about 4 or 5 years (original) and haven’t had a leak in either set of water pans & their screws. I expect that’s true of most users here as well. Once setup we don’t see people reporting it as an issue.

Never had a leak on my original crossfire 2x2 after cutting probably up to 20 sheets of 14 gauge.Ive got the pro now and it is leak free as well.I used the marine grade sealant that many users on the forums have recommended.I have a 45xp and have cut up to 3/8 steel with out issues.Higher amperage machines may have issues with burning the pan but I havnt seen it yet.

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Leaking is really not a problem, if you put some sealant under the screws before tightening them down.

If you don’t want to go through the pan, you could add some tabs to your new pan that would still allow you to attach it to the frame without going through the pan.

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I did these mods: Additional water pan mods

It is critical to have something keep the table perfectly square or you will end up with 90 degree corners that may actually be 87 degree.