I’m curious about how long I can let dirty water sit in the water table without damage, besides the slats rusting. I’ve only cut on one full sheet but it gets nasty/rusty real quick. Obviously now I understand about getting a drainage system setup. Today I drained and cleaned everything and it wasn’t that big of a deal.
I will say that the water table drains that come with the table are sad at best and I would feel shame if I sent this out as is. Not being flush or below to allow all the water to drain is pointless. With all the other design time spent on this table it was not expected to miss something so simple.
As far as other maintenance, what, if any lubrication should I use on the rails, lead screws, etc.
there is alot of information of the water table drains and the modifications people have done…as for the water and rust…you should be using a water additive to prevent rusting…
Greencut is one…but there are others out there including home mixes…
the water can sit inyour table as long as it is treated and you clean it from time to time…mind you some people only clean their table when they have to…gross…
lubrication…again…there is a lot of information on the forum…
rails keep clean and some people wax them to prevent water scales and grundge…makes them easier to clean.
screws…keep them clean and use a light machine oil on them…some people use sewing machine oil on them
Agree with you. Poor design from factory. I ended up modding mine like many others here. Lots of great ideas in this forum how to do this. You can go from mild to wild with the options. I fill and drain mine during every use. Takes about 2 minutes to fill and drains by itself into the storage tanks when done by opening up the two ball valves under the drain. Allows me to clean up the table a bit between uses to avoid it turning into a big job. I use STERLINGCOOL-PLASMACUT fluid instead of water to minimize rust and bacteria growth in the water table.
So I can see a tank, pump, filters, etc in my future but it’s still disappointing that the drains that come on the table are not flush or below and that the threads are 1/4". All basically cumbersome and realistically useless
The original cross fire i put a bead of rtv on the lip of the brass fitting supplied stuck it in the hole then installed the rubber washer then the nut. then there is very little rise over the bottom of the pan. Crude but effective i took a rubber mallet and 1 centered hit on the fitting it is the lowest point in the pan. no standing water and hadn’t leaked at all. That was fine until I bought the Pro. I did the same thing to both drains and still no leaks and no problem draining the pan.
For reference, here are a few links for the parts I used for my water table fluid system. Kept it simple and used garden hose fittings for most fittings since they are readily available and only need to support low pressure.
Filter strainer at the top of my storage tank
LOVHO Sediment Filter Attachment…
16 gallon storage tank (really holds about 17 gallons which perfectly fills the table)
RomoTech Domed Polyethylene…
Brass drain with ball valve (2 of them, one each side of water pan, it is larger diameter than stock so you need to punch a larger hole in the pan)
RAINPAL RBS024 V2 Brass Rain…
Y garden hose adapter
Morvat Heavy Duty Brass Garden…
Plastic valve on bottom of tank feeds into inlet of Ryobi water pump and a second valve for top of tank connecting to filter strainer ( had to drill hole in top of tank to mount)
Rain Barrel Spigot Kit - 3/4" PVC…
Garden hose barb kits(for all vinyl hose purchased from Home Depot)
Twinkle Star Garden Hose Repair…(2 kits)
Worked great so far
Let me know if there are any questions.
