Water table install alternates

I’m at the stage of installing the water tables. I’m not liking the idea of the self drilling sheet metal screws going into the frames As I don’t want the chance of leaks here. What about the idea of mounting the water tables joined together sitting on a piece of 3/8 inch plywood and find a way to make the plywood stay stationary on the frame with some clips or clamps Then anytime I want to clean it with the pressure washer I can pick up the table attached to plywood move it somewhere and pressure wash it then put it back in a precise location. Any reason why a 3/8 or half inch height increase would cause a problem since the torch is adjustable anyway.

Does any one paint water tables to at least fake yourself into thinking it will look good longer?

Any fluid that can be added to water benefit crud buildup ?

Are you planning to weld up the holes that are already in the water pan?

I followed the directions and removed the swarf from drilling the holes before tightening the screws. I also added a bit of gutter sealant under the screw head before tightening it. No leaks for 3 years now.

I also welded the pans together, because it’s way more likely to leak at that seam.


Thanks for the info. Apart from water leaking if you do it correctly, the other benefit of having the water table attached on a plywood base is taking it off to clean it. I’m curious if that sounds like a valuable option to be able to move it out to a location and pressure wash it.

No,NO,NO, the water pan screwed to table keeps the frame square. If frame comes out of square the y axis will be out of square, then binding will occur. The pan keeps square and rigid.


Ok good point. But what about out a thin guage steel plate over the frame that does the same effect for squaring and let the table still be removable to clean? Has anyone done this? I’d much prefer a way to remove and clean it but maybe this is not good.

I think you may be putting too much emphasis on ‘cleaning’ the table. I’ve seen water tables literally filled with cutoffs and it has no effect on your cut quality. Some fluid below the material does help cool it down after cutting, but, seriously, it’s all about the torch cutting through the material, not what happens to the cut offs.


Thats funny :rofl:
I see where your coming from wanting to keep it looking good, I am like that also. But that will wear off, this is a very dirty process and keeping that water pan really clean , well its kinda of a waste of time. I think you may regret trying to make it removible. Im sure you can figure out a way to do it, but it may bring problems with it.


I believe the XR water table is painted. I don’t think it will cause you any problems if you really want to do it… BUT I don’t think it will be any easier to keep clean then the bare stainless.

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Well everyone killed the idea so it’s going on normal.


If you’re main concern is cleaning up maybe you could make two pan liners that can be removed for cleaning up. The slats may have to be modified or maybe not?


In theory, a few strips of sheet with 90° bends to lay over the frame rails, then sheet metal screwed into the front and back frame vertical faces should provide enough rigidity via tension to give the necessary reinforcement.

You wouldn’t want to screw into the top of the frame sections, because that would lead the screws heads to interfere with the water table, but you’d need (can’t remember off hand how many fasteners each water table side uses) at least the same number of thinner strips, and as close to perfect length at the bends as the width of the frame.

Heed the advice of over cleaning.

I killed my pan (also using a 100a cutter on it) but I have seen damage from 60A cutters.

If I had left the debris from previous jobs in there, it would have acted as an insulator, and I would not be out another $400 for a mild steel replacement and plumbing.

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What about taking some thin gauge material and laying on the bottom?

That would work too, if you have a buffer layer of water between (set spacers under your layer. Plasma is very aggressive and does not care what is in front of it. Oxy flame cutting is less likely to cut two layers due to the heat transfer. I have had a layer of light rust divert an Oxy flame.

Plasma won’t flinch. Much hotter, more pressure behind the plasma.

Don’t get me wrong. LS water tables are perfectly fine if you are cutting at 45 amps or less. Go over that, then you will likely scorch the pan or burn a hole. Low water levels will get you even at 30a. Keep the water 1/2 from the brim.


I put “pipe dope” on all the fittings and scfews in the water pan…no leaks and no issues for 5 years


I have a original Crossfire that came with an aluminum pan (bought it used). The pan soon got a ton of pin holes. A real mess. I didn’t want to wait for a new SS pan so I stopped at my neighborhood Big Box Store and bought a can of black Flex Seal. Painted the entire bottom with a decent coat and let it cure. I’ve never had another leak… Dowsn’t look too bad either…

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there is a commercial waiting to be made on this comment…lol…

Flex seal wins again!!