THC Installation Step by Step

I currently just have torch on/off wired, but I’m going to wire in a pump to fill the water table, and and electric ball valve to drain it… someday… I’m not using the proma, I’m using the robott3 one in my writeup…

Any issues running the Proma SD on the controller vs the plasma cutter and using 1:1 arc voltage? It looks like many people have done that. My plasma cutter has cnc ports on the back for on/off, arc ok, and arc voltage @ 1:1.

Thanks for the info on the THC wiring info Dicky

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Wow! This was an exciting read along with the write-up. :thinking:
If there’s really no need for the linear rail arrangement to support the cantilevered arm (please chime-in with further advice on this),
I essentially already have everything needed for this build right here in the shop (power supply, stepper driver, buck converter, 24V 4-channel relay boards) All I really need to buy is the Z-axis linear actuator and the Compact THC. My version will utilize a seperate cabinet for the complete z-axis system electronics.
Found this actuator on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CRFR39Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AIVOOTLDDRLTB&psc=1

What a rabbit hole, this Plasma table thing! :money_mouth_face:
Thank you very much gentlemen, for sharing this project!

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Hahaha! …interesting, I thought I was the only engineer that used green Rawlplugs as circuit-board standoffs! :rofl:

Well, you don’t need the relay board, the existing torch relay works just fine, you just need to add a 5V power supply to isolate and repower the 5V for the relay and THC interface. You can also roll your own Z Axis using Open Builds tracks and wheels. See Finally completed my CrossFire mods - #11 by TomWS and an earlier post that talks about the Z Axis mod.

And, Yes, I agree, this thread is a VERY good source of information.

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Trying to wrap my brain around Proma or THC3T controllers… Something I’m not getting!

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I don’t know anything about the Proma THC but I REALLY like the THC3T controller! Having said that, the one thing you have to accept is repackaging it. That’s not to say the package is bad, it’s actually a very good quality package, but it is not splash proof and the ‘Divider Board’ is this fairly large orphan to the main controller and needs to be dealt with.
I found the control parameters easy to tune and seem to be rock solid.

OK, think I got it now :face_with_monocle:
So I’m budgeting maybe another US$650 to do Floating Z, THC3T-02, KSK-AP-4H sensors, a decent enclosure and nice connectors/fittings :money_mouth_face:
Looks like I can do :grinning:it in stages,thankfully!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SJM467C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AQJQWHRODJ0FC&psc=1

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/sensors_-z-encoders/inductive_proximity_sensors/18mm_round_harsh_duty/stainless_steel_factor_1_sensing(18mm)/ksk-ap-4h

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Those are nice, but expensive if you use the 3 that have been suggested. In my case, my Z axis mechanically floats and breaks a switch contact so the G31 probe code works well IFF you have a repeatable ‘backlash’ on the switch, ie, you can measure the distance from open to re-close and it’s repeatable within a couple of mil. The downside of using my method is that the weight of the ‘floating’ gantry does push the material down and will distort the Z calibration (at least, temporarily), whereas the inductive sensors don’t deflect warped material. Unfortunately, this requires three sensors that can reliably detect the distance to ANY metal (Steel, SS, Al, Copper, Brass, 24Kt gold, etc) that you’re likely to cut and those are expensive…

Price was good so I bought it! :rofl:

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Tough to beat that! Looks like the start of Zomething big!

Ok, this is the configuration I’m looking at ultimately (see pic, Thanks Tool Junkie), along with the XL Kit. So buying the necessary stuff as I go along. and building stuff in the shop in my spare time. Right now I’m printing my own stack-light design (designed on SolidWorks), the clear lenses are on the printer now (pic below).
Couple of questions:

  1. Where does one buy that “Red Board”?
  2. Do I wanna go Proma or THC3T what’s the pros and cons? (besides cost)

Zaxis%20Circuit

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The RED board is actually black on your CF system. It’s virtually the same board.

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Ahhh! …thought the Plasma Gods were demanding more money again! :rofl:

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As far as Proma vs THC3T, I haven’t used the Proma but have looked at the manual and I am very glad I picked the THC3T. There are more tuning controls on the THC3T (Z sensitivity - essentially loop gain, and Speed) and I think you might have more options about Torch input voltage, but I’m not sure about that.

Sounds like a plan!

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May wanna invest in a board , just in case I let the magic smoke out …hahahaha!

It’s virtually the same electronics (different connectors), but the SW MAY be different. Don’t know since Langmuir has a differently named DLL plugin for Mach3. The DLL, however, appears to be identical to the DLL used for the Mach3 USB Controller board (https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board) so…

Completed printing Stack Light. Not too bad, I think :grinning:

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