Terrible cuts on 14 gauge but good on 1/8

Hello all.

Looking for advice from people who have had terrible cuts like the picture below. the weird part is
The same air setup and similar settings (adjusted accordingly) leaves me with perfect cuts on 1/8th steel.

Send help please lol.

Can’t upload the 1/8 cuts but they are crisp

Have you resolved these issues of yours from last week?

If not post a new topic with almost zero details is not going to get you the help you need.

Something is wrong with how you set your parameters up. What are they?

What plasma? 52i What torch?
What consumable pack? Nozzle size? Cheap Amazon nozzles?


Work to torch distance?

Feed rate in inches per minute.

Torch controller control.
Divided or Raw? Nominal or Smart?

Pierce height? pierce delay?

Likely issue is that you never resolved your torch height issues from your last topic.

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You’re right I’m just beyond confused. Everything you asked is to follow. (On this steel it doesn’t cut but an old scrap I have it does same settings & program… must be the steel they are giving me???)

Settings: 100 ipm, 37 amps, 65 psi

Machine: 52i machine torch

Consumables: new 1.0mm from everlast

Work to torch .04 (tried .025, 03, .04, .05)

Torch control is raw voltage

Pierce delay is .05
Pierce height is .011

I have toyed around with basically ever setting but if you have some more things to tweak I gladly will.

The worse part is an old piece of scrap I have it works, but on this stuff it doesn’t?

So puzzled

I would venture to guess that you are not getting a proper electrical return connection “clamp” on that material. Clean (grind) the area where you are clamping. On my setup (CUT60) for 14g I am running 38A, 98ipm, 80psi, pierce height 0.12, no pierce delay, cut height 0.060

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aint that a lil high on PSI for the CUT60? shouldn’t be more than 75 and book setting is around 60 i believe.

Works well for me, and been doing so over a year now. No issues!


I think we should start by setting up your machine as your manual states for the type of material you are cutting.

Here is a link to your manual.
Everlast 51i manual

" Use 20 amps for the first 1/8"
Add 10 amps for every 1/8" after that.
Add 40% for stainless or aluminum"

the book is asking you to use 20 amps for 14ga.

You said the nozzle you’re using is a 1.0 the book States is for 40 to 50 amps.

It also States to reduce nozzle size to match amperage.

For 14 gauge you should be using a .6 or .8 nozzle.

It also clearly states do not reduce pressure to cut thinner materials.

Here is its pressure rating range.

4.5 - 5 bar. (65psi - 72psi)
I read a maximum in that pressure of 90 psi earlier in the notes

110 LPM (3.88cfm)

I would set it at 72 psi

make sure your compressor is keeping up with the flow.

If it’s just trying to cut with the pilot arc?

You’re going to need to get yourself the right consumables.

I would start by doing exactly what your book says and use that as a baseline.

I own and used a 60s Everlast on my Langmuir pro with torch height for quite a while before I upgraded to my hypertherm.


Very good advice!

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Wow lots to dig into! Thanks for all the knowledge. I have smaller consumables but I’ve been running higher ampredge to cut faster. (thought it would give me less dross) I will dig into this tomorrow I appreciate it!

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What ipm do you recommend I start at for 20-25 amps?

I get good cuts most of the time out of my rw45 but I leave all settings the same and leave it on 40 amps unless I’m cutting 1/4" or thicker then I bump it to 45 amps and just adjust the cut speed. Here’s a cut of 5/16".

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Clean mate! And yea I’ve been running beautifully until this new batch of steel… out of curiosity I even kept all my settings the same used a piece of scrap from my old batch and it worked so I’m lost.

I liked what @TinWhisperer said though lots of great info I’ll try in the morning

I got a piece of 14ga here while back that didn’t cut worth a flip and the place I got it from blamed mill scale. I flipped it and the other side cut a lot better go figure…

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I straight put a wire cup on my grinder and cleaned the whole area I was cutting! To be fair I didn’t do the back side.

I got abunch of new ideas to try tomorrow. Means a lot I’ve been going mad for the past week.

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A lot of people tend to over think it and I try to use the KISS method Keep It Simple Stupid works for the apps I create at my regular job and it works for me at home too…

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20 amps.

If you have a .6 tip/ nozzle running at 20 amps.

I would try to start at about 50 inches per minute.

The book also talks about using a cut height at least with the hand torch starting at 16th and no more than an eighth. 1/16-1/8 (0.0625-0.125)

I would set your cut height to .06

Pierce delay at .5s

And the vast majority of the hypertherm cut charts the Pierce height is 250% of the cutting height (.6*2.5=.15) so we’ll go with that for now.

Pierce height .15

Starting at 50 in per minute see what it looks like.

Just start by only moving up or down your inches per minute, leave all the other settings alone to find The Sweet spot.

I know it’s not recommended to use Smart voltage on 14 gauge but I would in this case cuz we do not know what to use as our voltage.
Be very observant during The cutting process to what the smart voltage is running out write it down. If you end up with settings that are working good wright down that number and start using it as your nominal voltage for those settings.

14ga mild steel
20 amps
50 ipm
.6 cut height
.15 pierce height
.5 pierce delay
Smart voltage till a nominal voltage can be determined…

Take notes of your parameters and results!

If you’re steel quality is at all in question while you’re trying to set this up go buy a chunk of cold rolled or figure that out with your metal supplier.
You don’t need another variable.

You’re welcome, good luck.
Please keep us updated with your results and if you come up with good settings post them please.


Wow thanks man! I appreciate all that info and guidance. Will be doing everything you said to the T. I hope this helps, you’re the man!

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Verify metal type. Looks different in sheen. Everything works, then you change metal and you get a part that looks like a beattle pooped it out… I’d get a known material for dialing baseline settings

You may want to do the magnet test on the 14 gauge. Take a piece of the 1/8" and 14 gauge clean it well. If the magnet sticks real good to the 1/8" but not as good to the 14 gauge it has a lot of stainless and crap metal in it and most likely came from China.

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