If your getting the temperature of the air in the pipe down to ambient temperature then there’s no more heat that can be rejected from the piping between the radiator and the refrigerated air dryer. so there should not be any condensation in that length until the next change in temperature or pressure.
If you had a passive radiator where some heat above ambient may still be left then you would want to trap it again before the refrigerated Air dryer or slope the pipe back to the trap at the radiator if possible.
I’d say good rule of thumb is if there is any heat above ambient temperature left in the compressed air once it’s left the radiator then you would require another trap. You could allow your refrigeratored air dryer to take care of it but this will take up some of its capacity to extract moisture. looks like you may have the extra capacity from the picture.
My best guess is air will still be a little toasty when using air at same time compressor is running… main tank gets a little warm pumping @ 175. I was just going to do air cooler, but needed an automatic fan for cooler since I blocked one side up against wall. Its probably overkill, But then @toolboy said I needed 4 aux tanks, a tracror radiator and 27 water filters… all for our 21% humidity here in Eastern WA.
Dang it! I knew I was missing something! Lol, props to recognizing a hard time being given out of respect for your knowledge. .
I must now search for post with the Motorguard details…
So just this week I got my cnc mill and cnc lathe up and running… with the amount of coolant they spray out… I did see a bit of a jump in the humidity readings in the shop… its still hot outside so I have the split AC units running and they do a fine job of dumping the water outside. I think is be worse in winter when heat is on and the coolant Evaps without AC helping. I can run the plits on dehumidifier mode, but they are my main heat source with the heatpump feature…
Ok, Question about Motorguard setups… so far I have only used inline equipment that can manage 175psi… the M60 list 125psi max…
Anyone pushing that 125psi limit? My compressor and dryer setup will be serving as shop air source going out to 5 sub regulatiors so I can manage pressure where I’m at with a given tool…
Should I put the motorguard on just the line headed to the plasma cutter? Any other similar filters that do 175psi?
I have my Motorguard filter right at the plasma…this way anything that gets in the air line is stopped at the motorguard…
you do have to watch for moisture in the filter as some people have experienced corrosion inside the filter from moisture buildup… MotorGuard M-60 Air filter Failed - YouTube
Would it make sense to return air to the tank as dry as possible… I know it’s not usually done that way because it’s easier to just hook everything up to the tank output. But since I’m already cutting into the line between compressor and tank… it seemed to make sense to put the 2 cooling type of dryers before the storage tank.
The risk you run is that your unit might not cool the air enough for water to condense while still in the dryer. It’s designed around a certain temperature differential, so In order to get optimum condensation you want the air pretty cool when it goes in.
I have a copper manifold at home and a transmission cooler with fan at my ranch shop. However, after I installed a receiver tank at home I caught so little in the dryer that I sold it. Gaining back that space was worth swapping and drying beads a little more often.
I’ve set mine up with the refrigerated dryer and cooler between the pump and the tank. No sense in filling the tank full of condensation and hot air. You won’t need an auto tank drain either. Most paint, powder coating, and cerakote shops I’ve seen will have it setup like this.
My 80 gallon compressor doesn’t run nearly as hot after its continuously run for about an hour. The cylinder head temps dropped about 30 degrees. The compressor cools down faster without having the metal tank holding heat too. I don’t collect any water in any of the filters and separators past the tank. I bought a dryer that handles up to 35 cfm and my pump isn’t moving anything close to that much, so it has no problem keeping up.
The only minor annoying thing is that everything between the pump and the tank has to bleed off when the compressor stops. My setup has about 8 feet of 3/4 inch copper pipe from the pump to the dryer and another 8 back to the tank. When it stops it will bleed for about 30 - 40 seconds. I’m sure there’s a way to put put a 1 way valve in but I didn’t. I’m used to it now thou.
This makes sense. I’ll have to look into that venting thing, one way seems logical… this quincy is so quiet when running , the pop off at the end is what makes the kids jump
I can follow the logic on the ref dryer location. They recommend a certain amount of air line prior to it however, but I believe that’s to lower the temp a bit to let it work more efficiently. The Aftercooler radiator handles that for you. I guess then it depends on the max input PSI. Does the air from the pump come through at a constant PSI? I would think it varies as tank pressure increases.
Ya, my take in line length prior is same… Need some coding action coming out of 175psi secondary cylinder. Little radiator gives 24 feet of line flow through fan cooled aluminum fins, which should do the trick.
Shop has AC… 80 deg in summer is usual inside temp with w/ 27% atm humidity. Unit has nominal capability of 50cfm at 100 psi & 100 deg f inlet temp. Condensate forms at a specific temp relative to pressurized humidity level and cooler auto regulates variables of sensed pressure, line humidity, line pressure to achieve output minimal -40f atmospheric dewpoint… Max inlet temp is 135f to achieve result.
Pressure increase lowers pressurized dew point, so if I can keep inlet temp under 100 @ 175 psi, I should around - 60f atmdp.
… Last bit after tank gets this little DAD50 stack…
.