I’ve been exploring the option of getting a custom water pan made for my Langmuir Crossfire Pro, inspired by several discussions here. I’ve reached out for quotes with the following specs:
The video mentioned a price of around $175, which seemed optimistic. Understandably, the quotes I received are higher, but they’re more than I anticipated. Does anyone have recent experience or recommendations for sheet metal work, especially in central Texas, that might offer more competitive pricing?
Why spend money on new pan, the water pan that comes with table works fine? My pro pan is 4 years old never a leak, I tig welded the pan joints. I would use the money to purchase more material for projects to cut, just my 2 cents…
I do like the pictures design with the channels so water goes to the drain but as mentioned the water table from Langmuir is fine but wish they would design them so they have the recessed drains to get all the water out
So mine is leaking and I don’t know how to tig weld. I could buy a cheap tig machine and learn to tig but then I run the risk of the tables warping. I know mig welders in the area but no tig, so likely would be hiring a stranger who would probably charge half the price of a water table, but I still run the risk of leaking and warp. Lastly, I’ve read all the posts using various sealants and techniques folks have tried and I don’t have the time nor patience to try out all those methods.
Not trying to reject your recommendation, just sharing my current thought process!
Your reasoning makes sense to me, and the lower of the two quotes doesn’t seem tooooo crazy for a one off laser cut, bent, and welded stainless steel sheet part. That doesn’t mean you might not find a lower price out there if you find a shop looking to develop new customer relationships, or with fast and loose quoting practices, but you’re not super likely to find something for half the price, let alone 1/4, so take your time into account when it comes to tracking down a company to do the work.
Just thinking out loud here but why can’t the water bed be made out of galvanized instead of SS. I know I’m my area they use to use galvanized for sap collection and it’s much cheaper than SS . I don’t think it being galvanized would harm anything and will still have the anti rusting capability
My XR water pan I didn’t tig weld the seams, I used PL marine adhesive. The water pan is mild steel painted no problems with water pan for 2 years now. The 3M 4200 and 5200 are great marine adhesive’s as well.
My pro I tig welded the seam.
I had leaks about 3 weeks after my initial build and I don’t TIG weld either. I simply cleaned everything and gooped this product on the seam and no leaks for more than 2 years now.
My 1978 Steury ( Fako Mako) I completely cut this boat apart and rebuilt designed center console all joints got
3M 5200 and 4200 adhesives no leaks or loose seems 7 years now on rebuild.
If you cut 1/2" with 65 amps a deeper table is advisable. I managed to TIG mine on the back side, which was more of a pain, but the 65 amps was cutting the ridge, it even left burn marks on the bottom of the pan. It warped some but I was able to screw it back down and it’s been holding fine. I lined the bottom of mine with some 1/8" sheet I had laying around and haven’t had any issues at 65 amps since.
If I decide to build a new pan I’ll go with 11ga carbon steel since I can bend & MIG that myself, with hopefully better results. I use one of the additives which seems to avoid rust pretty well.
I would forget the small drain plug connection…have the hole big enough to put in a barsink drain…works great…faster draining and you can easily use it to make better recirc and filtration system
Hey toolboy,
What is the description for the water filter canister you are using and are you happy with it?
Does it use replacement filter cartridges?
Thanks
