Razor weld 45 cutting 1/2" have you done it?

Ok I am looking at cutting some simple rectangle brackets
One 4.5 x 3.5 with 4 - 1/2" holes
One 4.5 x 7.25 with 8 - 1/2" holes

I will have to cut 50 of each. I want to do some testing first. So here are my questions
I was planning 10 ipm for outside cut 6 ipm for holes, does this sound like a good place to start?
Pierce delay of 1 sec or more 75-80 PSI?

I am wondering about duty cycle at 45 amps, have you ever had your RW quit due to duty cycle at 45 amps? if so how long did you cut before it tripped?
This is a lot of holes to pierce, how many PIECES do you think I could cut before I would have to replace consumables?

Anything I missed?

my cut chart shows 15ipm so i would say you are close. if i remember correctly the duty cycle is 60%. you should be able to cut continuously for 6 mins out of 10.

you can add your total cut inches up to see how long it will take.

Ok so I made a bracket in 1/2", has 4 - 9/16" holes. I cut the holes at 45 amps, 75 PSI, 6 ipm. Cut the perimeter at 10 ipm.

did pretty good, had a lot of bottom dross but chipped off easily. I thought about speeding it up a touch to see if it would help on dross, but not sure I can seed it up enough to make a difference with only 45 amps.

It did come off easy enough, What do you think?

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If you have the material to play with I would bump it little just to see. Then again if it cleans easy and cut quality is satisfactory well enough works.

Just keep In mind with my experience the thicker the material the more dross you will see. Like you said with your machine you can’t go any hotter.

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what you thinking move up 1 or 2 ipm?

Here is a repair I did with my rw45. 3/4 cut at 6 inches per minute. I would try 4 maybe.

bumping it up 4ipm?

If you want to get rid of some dross I would try it.
Did it seem to struggle to cut it at 10?

I see no reason it can’t cut it you holes my suffer some though.

It seemed ok at 10, I cut the holes at 6. Weird thing there was less dross on the holes

That is strange… man that 3/4 had a boat load stuck to the slates. It did knock off ok with a hammer … heck try one at 6 or 8 also. That will just put you closer to you duty cycle.

I did not state this before.
On my first cut, I lost arc on the lead outs, on holes and the outside cut, plus I had lots of dross.
This was at 6 imp holes 10 ipm outside.
I removed lead outs from holes and did 7 ipm holes and 12 ipm outside.
No lost arc on hole cuts, cuts looked the same and about the same dross.
but I still lost arc on the lead out of the outside cut and I see this due to slow cut speed and large pierce. (pierce delay is 1.1 sec)

So now I will try no lead out on outside cut, and if that fixes my loss of arc I think I will be good.
Here are the two files.
WLC spacer .542 holes no lead outs v1.f3d (151.1 KB)
Can only upload one files as Fusion is doing something weird with the larger of the two.
Fusion doing weird stuff again

Are you doing a overlap? You must be cutting into already cut places to lose your arc. You may even make your lead out smaller. Dross is probably nature of the beast.

The F3Z file attachment is because you’re using a F3D file that is using information from another F3D file .

F3Z it’s referencing two or more F3D files.

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So how did I do that?
So its not having two files open at the same time in fusion, Something to do with the way I drew it?

No overlap. But the pierce ends up pretty close to the cut and with the slow speed it was leaving a hole that the arc was lost in. I think dross is going to be that way with my set up, but it does come off very easy no biggie.

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Maybe you can do a arc or another type lead in maybe.

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Outside cuts:

I am also getting a nib on the outside cut and losing arc there too. If I can get rid of the Nib on the outside cut I will be good.

ideas to remove nib:
Remove Lead out?
Add overlap? how much? will this maybe cause loss of arc if added?

Current settings for lead in Lead out are the same.
Lead in radius .04
lead in sweep angle 110 deg
Lead in distance .04

That lead in looks very short to me. .04 is that right? I use like .125 on lead ins in 14 ga. I usually do .2 on 1/4.

I would increase leads and make a cut. Watch your cut very close to see where it does it at the start or finish. Can you grab a picture of you nibs ?

Then you may need to have to play with angles and stuff on leads.

I did some 1/2 not long ago with my ht65 no issues with losing arc . I don’t remember length but I did a arc lead in and out.

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Yes .04 on lead in but you have to add radius and sweep as they add to it.

Yes now thinking about it with a 1.1 pierce delay and short lead I am probably making a pretty good size hole at the start. I was trying to keep lead in short as possible as I need to cut 50 of each and I am trying to keep the parts as close as possible . I will make the lead ins a little longer see what happens.
So your thinking I should still have a lead out on the outside cut?

Thanks for you help

Can you array your parts and pick where you start your cuts? I very seldom fool with f360.

I do some 1/4 part that I space out .170. they have a 5/8 radius in the corners that is where I like my starts to be. When the parts get cut I have less than .060 skeleton left but the corners have plenty meat to put my leads.

I like doing a lead out it the parts look ok and it keeps you from losing arc it may not be necessary.

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