That’s similar to the one I have. I wrapped mine in 3" fiberglass batt insulation (took almost 1 roll) on the top & 3 sides. It heats up faster that way and can get to 450 if needed. I usually hang my stuff from a swivel hook I bolted into the top but have the shelves if I need them for parts without holes to put a hook through. I also have some silicone plugs I put screw eyes in so even if there are no through holes but I’ve got threaded holes I can hang things. I also put in 2 rods in a + configuration under the top so I can hang multiple things in either a front to back or side to side orientation. Little mods that make things easier.
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Just curious if you use a dedicated grounding rod for powdercoating. Back when I was still using my Eastwood gun I struggled on complex parts until i installed a 10ft copper grounding rod to use. Then I was able to do multiple coats with somewhat ease (I mean as easy as you can be without any control). I was able to do 2-3 coats on wheels…just had to play with air pressure and distance alot on the final coat.
I’m currently running a EZ50 as well and have done up to 6 coats without much issue.
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I am running a dedicated grounding rod as well. Now idk if I noticed a huge difference going from the clip that came with the gun or using the rod, but it obviously doesn’t hurt. The main thing I have noticed is to make sure your part hooks are always clean. The issue I would have with the EW gun was really noticeable on spraying metallics. With Metallics you generally use a lower kv then a solid color, and since the ew only goes to 25kv, I would run into back ionization
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Part hooks always get bead blasted with the part here 
I keep meaning to tie into the grounding rod I installed for my old laser (new one doesn’t need it) but keep putting it off. I think I’ll do it when my Pro comes in - the part of the garage the Pro us going in is where I routed the tie-in. Since I have clean it out anyway, I’ll move the tie-in.
You guys are a good influence on my lazy-butt self 
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About these coating guns. I used to send everything out for powder coating and the most popular colour we used was a semigloss black from prismatic. Anyway I see in the notes for that powder that it recommends 45kv to apply. the cheaper guns are 15 or 25kv for the eastwood one but I see written here that lower voltage is better, how does the voltage relate to the powder and the kinds of parts (corners and blind holes for example)
The kv rating is dependent on the part. A flat piece you can run higher kv, a part with corners, if you try to run that same kv, you will run into cage faraday issues
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I see. So what is the rating in the powder for? Is that something to be concerned with?
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Not at all. I never look at the kv rating. At 10 kv powder will stick and at 50 it will stick, it just depends on your part primarily. That’s why I say a redline gun is a great starting point as you can adjust the kv and air right on the gun. When I’m spraying a part with corners I am adjusting the kv as I spray
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Jealous!!! Go Dicky!!
Nice. I have a furnace to move heh. Then It can go where the furnace was. Little motivation today. 3 of 4 rattle cans were bad In the colour I was needing 
Looking good. You might want to run a wire through the top that you can attach a hook to. On the other end you can connect the ground wire and not have it get mucked up with powder. Hanging the part lets you turn it around and get good coverage.
For people doing Yeti cups or such, you can make a stand to put the cup on (upside down) and a lazy susan (don’t use your wife’s cake decorating one - DAMHIK 
).
If you want to kick it up a notch, you can cut a couple square foot hole in the back and stand a box fan back there blowing towards the wall. Tape a furnace filter to the inside of the spray box. That helps keep the powder that doesn’t land on the part from spilling into the box, it’ll get sucked into the filter.
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Just getting started… I’ll have a belt driven furnace fan sucking out the fumes to the outside with a replaceable filter inside, It’ll also have a Y splitter and the hose will run to a hood over top of my plasma table… Getting ready for winter… garage doors closed, heat on (wi-fi thermostat so I can kick it up from inside the house), no more painting in the summer sun! LOL, I spend more time building the tools, then I do using them!
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Sorry it took me so long to get these pictures for you. The flames stay under the sheet metal so they dont create major hot spots right above them. It’s not the prettiest, but it works and got the job done.
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looks good. only 3 burners ?
yes, they are large burners that came out of a flat top grill used in a restaurant. They are about 16" long. You might need 1 or 2 more if you use the burners out of a normal grill
Here’s an item that I got off of P/S and my wife said that she wanted one so I powder coated it for her, she loved it.
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Sorry for the delay, I think a few others have explained it, but the simplest explanation is capability. The cheap one are fine for single coats, but even there can have limitations. If you learn how to Hot Coat, you can do 2 to 3 coats, but its not the best way to do it. The better guns have adjustable KV which allows you to apply more layers. It’s also important to have a really good dedicated ground nearby.
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By ground do you mean a seperate from the chassis ground on the machine ?
Correct. True earth ground. 8ft copper grounding rod.
Not as critical on flat and simple parts while doing single coats. You can get away with the guns ground for that. But complex parts and multiple coats it makes a huge difference
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