I wouldn’t waste a ton of money on a 1" copper pipe array. I have about 60 feet of 3/4" copper with 4 drop legs and I hardly get any actual water from them. Occasionally, the air feels a bit damp when I open the valves on the drop legs, but no liquid.
I installed a transmission cooler between the pump output and the tank, with a water separator on the outlet of the cooler, and that pulls out about an ounce of water every time the compressor cycles. It was much cheaper than the copper pipe and fittings and I can see the water being removed.
I still run the air through the copper pipes and into a 1 quart dessicant dryer before it goes into the motorguard, just before the plasma cutter.
DS, I do like the idea of the tranny cooler tween the pump and tank. Thanks for your experience with the copper condensate columns, maybe 3/4" would be better. So all of the above, minus the large diameter copper then?
If I were doing it again, I might skip the copper pipes and just do the trans cooler, dessicant and motorguard with RapidAir piping. It certainly can’t hurt to have the copper pipes, but I don’t see any evidence that its removing much moisture.
Gotcha. The dessicant system that I’m thinking of doing is going to be pretty large (1gal+), so maybe that will be sufficient, and can skip the copper after the tranny after cooler.
A smaller diameter will increase the Reynolds number ( turbulence ) in the pipe which is great for heat transfer and bad for entrainment of condensed moisture. This means that some of the liquid moisture can be carried along to the next device. a Larger pipe will also lower your velocity which subjects the air to the heat transfer of the heat exchanger for a longer time while minimizing entrainment.
Personally I have a different opinion on this .
Dessicant is a must if you hope too achieve the correct pressure dew point in your air .
The dark blue is where a passive or active ambient air cooler will get you to.
The blue color is where a refrigerated air dryer will get you to.
And the light blue is where a desiccant cell will get you to.
Sketchup is…was awesome !! I used Sketchup from 2008 to 2020 then i moved to Fusion 360. You could still use Sketchup with SheetCAM which maybe a good combo.
Where are you reading this?
A rough rule of thumb for recommended amount of desiccant would be approximately 0.2 to 0.3 pounds per CFM of compressed air. but this will vary depending on temperature and RH of the inlet air to the desiccant cell.
I think they are just referring to a typical house current 110 v receptacle. Most house use 12-2 wire which is rated at 20A so most 110 lines are protected with 20A breakers in modern houses in the U.S.
The control box on the table doubtfully pulls anything more than 10 amps. That includes the motor operation for moving the torch.
The first one I saw, I asked the people if they liked it. They didn’t “like” it, they “loved” it. I then asked “what is their favorite food that it does well?” They both replied: “tatter tots.”
I thought, my gosh, you bought an appliance primarily so you could enjoy “tatter tots!” They are fine in an oven!
Dang TinWhisperer, thanks for the detailed response. I was/am not keenly familiar with the affects of larger/smaller diameter copper or ISO 8573-1 (not an engineer, just a hack), but you have given me much to research and hopefully a target to achieve with this info. I was operating on a “If some is good, more must be better” approach, but could really use to sit diwn and geek out a bit to at least create something that I think achieve my needs vs $, overkill and praying (typical of me). Admittedly, this has been a back burner issue to my other shop preps and gear research, but front burner at this point now that said gear is starting to show up!
I don’t keep track of the interval, but I dry them out before any cuts that have a lot of pierces. I’d say the last time I dried them was after about 700 pierces and there was still plenty of blue beads left in there.
Hi Chelan, I read it in one of the “prepare for delivery” docs. I skimmed the table’s assembly manual, but didn’t see specific’s re input amperage… Our house was built in 2013 and all electrical is builders grade with 14ga wire and 15A breakers for standard wall recepticles. When I built my shop, I was short sighted in this and only ran a few 20A recepticles, not one near the table. Nonetheless, I can run one in if needed, just one more thing that I have to account for. I’ll probably wait till I get the table and look at the PS’s stamped specs (hopefully there) if there’s nothing in the manual on it.
@Domo here is a thread where near the end I did a lot of testing on my compressor with a aftercooler.
I am not working today just got home. I have a few projects to wrap up later I will pm you a detailed description of my dryer and air fryer system🤣 if you want.
We literally just bought an air fryer about 4 months ago despite the rants and raves that we heard for years… They are certainly good for crisping tater tots on the quick, but I’ll be dead ass honest here… That thing will cook wings JUST as good as our deep fryer. Fries not so much, so we still keep the deep fryer around for occasional use, but we do use that damn air fryer for a lot of stuff at this point. We did a pork tenderloin in it the other week, fresh cut/battered chicken nuggies too, and both delish. We have a whole (young) chicken defrosting currenly to try and run it through and see how it does! Not an official air fryer cult member, but do see the benefit vs heating up the big oven…
And sorry, I do realize that there is a search button, but figured I’d include a couple of quick questions to append to my intro. As I move forward, I’ll try not to create redundancy’s by searching first. Looks like a great thread by the way, just gotta get to the top of the thread! (damn tablet / mobile interface)…
Admittedly, this has been a back burner issue to my other shop preps and gear research, but front burner at this point now that said gear is starting to show up!