This worries me. I just dumped money on a RAD myself, and if I’m still burning through consumables after installing, I’ll need some drywall repair.
With the setup I have I get decent life out of my consumables. In the summertime my garage has a humidity of about 80 percent. Key would be have a large enough desiccant filter to handle your air volume needs. Then recharge before needed.
I will def come back and update after a few hours of cutting, I plan to open up the desiccant dryer and look at its condition. I’m in New Hampshire.
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They do not look that bad. Yes your getting some moisture but not bad. You may want to try one of these as a last defense. Fisheye Filter Spray Gun Tool Inline Air Oil Water Blocker | eBay I use the Thermal Dynamic ones but I am guessing they are the same thing.
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what RAD did you go with? what happened to your drywall 
Thanks George! I am fairly new to the plasma game and haven’t got good looks at how consumables look like after use and different scenarios so I appreciate your input ! thanks for that link
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I generally change my beads after a hour or so give or take. I use a lot of air when I am in the shop so it doesn’t take long. I also dry all my air the powder coating appreciates dry air as well.
I wish I could find a cheap way to check my air quality after all my drying equipment.
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Just a harbor freight one, I couldn’t spend $1k+ on a big compressor name brand one.
As for the drywall, nothing…. yet (it was a joke that I’d punch some holes out of frustration after all the fighting I’ve been doing).
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that was what Id like to figure out, a way to monitor what’s coming out as the end product. I put a mirror under the torch head and manually turned the air flow on using the button on the plasma cutter and it stayed clear and clean for the 12 minutes it was on, not sure that’s a scientific way or not Haha
A mirror won’t show suspended moisture though…
I bought a cheap thermometer barometer combo that only goes to 15 or 20 percent I can’t exactly remember.
I looked around and that’s about a average best to my memory. I would buy one that could go lower. My plans was to use my fluidizer line on my powder coating gun to run though a Tupperware can with a vent to create a conditioned environment to measure in. The cost of the equipment to measure it is unpractical.
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Always unsure which “air moisture” thread to add on to, but I’m picking up my HF RAD today. I have a butt ton of questions before I undertake the full install….
I will be disconnecting my derale intercooler since no longer necessary and reconnecting the compressor as the OEM intended, and try to program in an autodrain for the compressor tank. DO I NEED to have an aftercooler between my compressor tank and the RAD?
Could I mount the derale cooler to the top of the RAD’s enclosure if so, that way short run of tube/pipe between them?
Do I need to reconsider the outlet size quick connect fittings from my craftsman compressor? Currently only using the skinnier quick connect hose (1/4 NPT threads) from it to the other equipment.
I see most people make an H configuration isolation valve setup for a bypass. Why? Why not just put quick connect fittings and connect them together if you need to bypass / service the RAD?
Your RAD does have a max inlet temp. I do have a after cooler between the tank and RAD. Big question is will you run it hard enough to have a high air temp going into the RAD?