If any of you want to send me your LS torch holder I can modify it like so
3 Likes
1.185 was first number. 1.1815 Iām getting now calliper is from Home Depot so who knows. But if you make it square and thicker .5 inches thick it should be good.
1 Like
Yup, not a problem with those cups.
Btw, that copper cap in the pic is the drag style. That isnāt what youāre using when itās on the table, right?
Steve.
Ya, according to my dealer that is the only style made for the xt40 hand torch
Sir, those guys are doing you a disservice by saying that.
Google the xt40 consumables, you will find extended tips and related parts. That cup is giving you some terrible beveling Iāll bet.
Is that Maine Oxy?
They did okay on my argon but the guys at the counter didnāt know what zirconiated tungsten was used for when another customer was there picking it up on special order (but then he didnāt know either 
).
Lol, what is it used for? Tig welding titanium?
Hey wait, your supposed to be awayā¦where are you?
Usually aluminum. It makes for minimal tungsten contamination of the weld and holds a balled tip. But the inverter based Tig welders donāt recommend balled tips for aluminum anymore - just normal sharpening with a slightly blunted nose. So if youāre still using the older transformer style machines theyāre useful. But the rare earth ones are generally as good and work for both AC and DC welding.
(Iām in CT for the next couple of weeks.)
Further research shows that the extended tips/consumables are for the ICE torch and the xt60 and the xt40-M but not for the XT40, I guess my dealer was right.
Damn it, I thought we were on to something here.
I ran into the same issue with my ICE torch, they said the consumables were not compatible.
They are wrong. The hand torch internals are just the same as the machine torch, just different bodies.
I ran my handheld torch with machine parts in it for the last 5 years or better.
Just sold a 625 Extreme that also had the M consumables on the hand torch. Thinking you just need to buy a Deflector to get rid of the drag shield. But I would also buy the extended tip and electrode. Those help with the heat around the retaining cup.
Is this not the torch you currently have sir?
Well that clears it up, I was wondering what the heck I was missing.
Your full of good information, thanks man. Guess I have to order some stuff.
1 Like
Hello All! New to the Crossfire. Just curious if there has been any progress to Joeās original query? Does anyone have any settings/cut speeds for various material thicknesses they can share for the Miller 625? Just setting everything up and want to make sure I get as close as possible the first go round. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
Iām going to be using a 625 extreme on the Pro table, but itās not here yet. Will be keeping an eye on this thread for info and will post back my experience. As a side note, I talked with Miller support a few days ago, and the CNC automation kit for the 625 is no longer being made for the new models, but the cnc port can be retrofitted into some of the older ones (like mine) with the quick attach torch handle.
1 Like
Hello allā¦ I am new to the forum and have recently gotten my pro table up and running. I am running a Miller Spectrum 625 Extreme and was hoping for some input on machine settings. I have read through a lot of the posts on here and the info has been really helpful to get up and running. I am running my plasma machine on 220vā¦ have had that set up for years and always used it for hand cutting. My question is in regards to settings on the machine and the 30a tip vs 40a tip. To start, when using the 30a tip, should the setting on the machine be 30a or less (over 30a possibly causing damage to the tip or machine?)? Would you ever run the 40a tip at less then the 40a setting on the machine? Or is this where you just keep it at the max and adjust your cut speed? I have been recently cutting 16ga and am getting a beveled edge, more so then when I was previously cutting 1/4ā which came out really nice. I was running the 40a tip, machine set at 40a and a cut speed of 60 ipm for the 1/4ā and it was a nice cut (little bevel). Seems like as i am going thinner (3/16ā and now 16ga I am struggling with more of a bevel. I know there is a lot going on in this postā¦ appreciate any input that can be offered. Gotta say overall I am really enjoying running the table and am excited for the projects that I can produce with itš
Yes. It may not blow the tip out immediately to be over 30, but I imagine it will wear it out quick!
Yes - I do that frequently - for example, when Iām doing 18ga, Iāll dial the machine back to 25-30 and leave the 40a tip in. Adjust IPM accordingly. But you can leave it at 40 as well. I do it to lessen the pierce blowout, but experiment with it - you may find you like the cut quality better when itās dialed back a little. Thereās no āabsoluteā correct setting - just what gets you best results. Most of the time I cut with the 40a tip and dial in the amps. When I want to do fine work on sheet metal I will switch to 30a.
Iāve seen folks on here doing 3/8 with the 30a tip that looked laser cutā¦never would have occurred to me to do 3/8 with 30a tip - so keep that in mind as well.
On the bevel - search around on here - thereās some more detailed descriptions than what Iāll put here - but watch you cut height and power. The cone shaped arc is what causes the bevel and it depends on where in the cone your cut is happening. Iāll defer to other more knowledgeable posts but perhaps that will point you in the right direction. Some bevel in normal with plasma.
Welcome to the forums!
1 Like
I appreciate the info, I will definitively be trying running the machine with the 40a tip and dialing back the amps. Would be nice to not have to swap out the tip/electrode between the different sheet material (iāll be cutting a little of everything). I ended up cutting a bunch of 16ga today running the 30a tip and machine set at 30 amps, 250ipm with a .12 pierce and .06 cut height. Still getting more bevel then i think i should be on this thin of material, so iāll keep at it and hopefully find the āsweet spotā. Thanks again for the helpš
How are you running the tips - with a drag shield installed? Iāve got a machine torch (but hand torch is same fittings) and had been running the machine torch shield (similar to the drag shield) but I realized it was setting .06 cut height from the shield, not the tip, which was offset .06 by the shield. Long story short - my shield was causing me to have a .12 offset not a .06 offset. That has an impact on the cut quality and bevel. I took off the shield and itās been cutting great ever since. Not sure if itās whatās causing your issue, but something to keep in mind! Happy cutting!
1 Like
I was lucky enough to weed that one out early from all the info (yours includedš) that I read through on the forums. I am running the 40a tip with machine torch shield and setting the pierce at .06 and cut height at .01. That has given me some nice cuts on 1/4ā. When cutting with the 30a tip I am running that small ādeflectorā (i think that is what it is called). It doesnāt offer much in the way of tip protection, but it seems to be working well. Iāll see what kind of life I get outta that set-up. This is making me think to mess around with the cut heights moreā¦ since i am getting good cuts on 1/4ā with a total cut height of .07 (machine shield + .01 setting)ā¦ maybe increasing the cut height slightly with the 30a tip will give me less bevel. So on my to-do list next time iām running the table will be 40a tip with amperage cranked down and some playing with cut heights. The one thing this table doesnāt lack is lots of details to keep track of. I mayā¦ or may notā¦ have left the the air off today and it mayā¦ or may not have taken me 5-6 mis-fires to realize itš¤£
2 Likes