Raw voltage is the way to go. I am not sure why everyone is hell bent on using these resistor control boards for a signal—100 primeweld threads on this exact same subject. Hook it up and start cutting stuff. Primeweld Cut 60, it seems that you get a good one or you don’t. Just my two cents
Thanks to the TinMan for this awesome step-by-step. I have published this 50 times if not one time..
@GaltsGarage , even though i’ve never had issues with running divided voltage on any of the 3 cut 60s i currently have, I would suggest going RAW. As Bigdaddy stated, it’s hit and miss and not worth the headache at this point. even if you fried the divided voltage side of the VIM box, the RAW voltage side still functions.
Primeweld just came out with a totally revamped version of the cut60. I’ve asking Dustin to send me one to test out. Supposedly, all the internals are redesigned as well.
I have no complaints with the Cut60, I’ve gotten three solid years out of it and other than divided voltage which I can’t say for sure was a PrimeWeld side issue it has worked great from day one. It’s hard to say if the issue was on one of the boards I replaced or if it was in the VIM or my pigtail or the enclosure board or some combination of all three because I replaced pretty much everything all at once. I think I’m going to go ahead and just go the raw voltage route though, I’m concerned though that FireControl is not seeing voltage even though voltage is actually there. Does anyone know if RAW voltage and divided voltage share circuits inside the electronics enclosure?
if you go RAW voltage from the inside, you’re getting straight voltage from the Lugs. DON’T use the raw voltage pins off the cnc port as it’s being filtered, then filtered again via the VIM box.