Little help with lead ins?

Learning a lot and really enjoying it. Am getting a handle on speed and power and such. Kinda stumped on probably something very simple.
Can anyone tell me what I’m doing wrong? Getting these dimples in everything and assuming it has to do with lead ins and outs.
What am I doing wrong and how do I fix this?

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How long is your lead in?

Looks like you can make them longer.

I always try 2 or 3 time my kerf.

How long is your pierce delays?

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On this one pierce delay is .8
120 ipm
lead in .15
no lead out
16ga cold roll

Try .5 pierce. That is long for 16 ga.

What amps are you using?

I too was surprised to see it that high. I’ve been going from .02 to .5 based on the myriad of info one gets on the interwebs, have yet to get a comfortable grasp on it yet.
I had this set just below 25 amps on the rw45. The cutting itself seems to be good, just keep getting these dimples in it.
From what I’ve seen .15 should be okay, is that correct or should I try adjusting that?

Try adding a lead out. Then if that doesn’t help may try longer. .5 is about as short as will work.

What plunge rate are you using? Are you using fusion or sheetcam?

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Using Sheetcam
plunge rate is 100
pierce height is .1181

I’ve added lead out, increased both to .2, lowered pierce delay to .3.
Should I try it out or should I change anything here?

most of the time these machines don’t like anything shorter that .5 pierce delay. worth a try you may get a error which you can just override the delay in fire control.

i believe what is happening is the time it takes the torch to shut off after it stops is blowing that hole.
watch when the cut starts to see if it makes it at the start or the end. the lead out should prevent that though.

also, i use .150 pierce height. i dont think what you are using is causing your issue.

shorten your lead out to .03 - .05

Turn the amps up as well. No reason to cut at 25. You will of course have to up your speed. The only reason to turn down your amps is if you’re limited by the consumables you are using.

Why are you suggesting he turn up his amps?

There is no benefit to cutting at that low of amperage. You’re not getting a smaller kerf, it’s just taking longer. Even Langmuir has said on their test machines they keep it at 45 and just adjust the speed.

I will say however, from experience with my hypertherm, I got much better results with fine cut consumables (smaller nozzle) at 40 amps and 130 ipm than I do with standard consumables at 280 (somewhere around there) ipm. I feel like the pro runs better and more stable at around 150 ipm than at full speed. That may just be in my head though.

Unless of course he’s using a different torch and consumables rated for 25 amps. He did not specify, so I assumed.

It seems like it’s a razor weld user thing to run an odd amp setting and odd cut speed setting. Even cutting 1/4 inch we see people not running it at full power. I don’t get it.


I agree with you regarding keeping cut speed down a bit for optimal performance on the table motion. I do believe that at any given moment the longer a given amount of heat is located in any spot the wider a kerf can become up to the point the arc can no longer conduct. I might have missed something but I do not know what plasma cutter the op has. I have an everlast that I can put a large range of nozzles in all requiring with different max amp capabilities. I agree that lowering amperage very much below a nozzles max rating does not have much benefit I was not able to determine what he is cutting with. Personally I cut 16g at 28 amps and 121 ipm using a 30amp nozzle. Sometimes I use a 20 amp nozzle and take my amps even lower.

I like hearing what other’s personal experiences like this are. Thank you.
I did mention in one that I have rw45 but did not mention I was using fine consumables. Learned the other day what happens to them when I forgot what consumables I had in and turned it up to 45 to cut some 11 ga. Needless to say it didn’t take long to find out.
On this note, I get really nice cuts but still a fine line of dross that does come off easily with a flapwheel or buffer pad but I hear people saying they can flick theirs off with a fingernail. What affects that? Faster speed = less dross or what is the areas I should focus on to improve it?

Dross is unavoidable. You can chase a dross free cut and you may find the magic setting for a given design or a long sweeping cuts, but the reality is for detailed work on 16 gauge there are too many variables to nail down one setting for everything.

Depending on your work type, it may benefit you to tune the heck out of a given file. For what I do, the designs are almost always different so I have what works and stick with.

Also, use a wire wheel on an angle grinder to get the initial dross off. Then follow up with a flap disc.

Are you using the 30 amp fine cuts from the power max 30 or the 45 amp fine cuts?

Also, @DnKFab im surprised you’re cutting that fast at 28 amps. I’m at 130ipm and 40 amps on a powermax45


Thanks. Like I said, I’ve been happy with my results but always think I can do better. I have nothing tangible to compare it to so when I hear people saying they get almost none then I wonder if I can improve.

Also make sure you have the correct offset as well. Inside offset not outside.


BTW, Thanks for the earlier info Phillipw. Much happier with the results after messing with your recommendations.


Not bad looking good

It looks a little rough in spots. I wonder if it’s in the file itself.