Sticks:
I am a visual person (that means I don’t like to read, anyway) so I went right to the video.
Tin:
Can I say “Really cool!”
And what is even cooler than that is that I have been using my printer, on a much less sophisticated level, ‘manufacturing’ the things that I find that I need. So, imagining a time when you just search for a “Deer-hunting-for-a-hunter piggy bank” is not that much of a stretch.
Might be a dumb question, but is there such a website or was magic.com just theoretical?
Edit: it does look like the first layer of petg CF did adhere properly. I have to go out and load up my van to get some gas fitting done I’ll come back and check it in a few hours once I finish.
I’ve had good luck with cleaning the plate with isopropyl alcohol.
I’ve also found that I have to bump up the bed temperature by 5 degrees over the stock profile to get things to stick properly.
For PLA, I use 65c bed temperature and leave the top off or the door open.
I had been printing ASA and forgot to take the top off, when I switched back to PLA, and nothing was sticking properly. Took the top off and the issue went away.
Interesting! So you think that the added temp of the cabinet is delaying the filament to set solid and then it has a chance for dehiscence from the build plate? (That is a word from previous profession : means the the wound margins separate and it becomes an open wound…not a good thing).
I have had the problem with PLA and PETG. I do believe it might have related to moisture in the filament. Some filament that was atrocious for doing that, works fine now. I guess they say the outside layers of the filament are more likely to get wet first and also dry first when first drying. That makes sense.
I’ll see if I can print one of those things so I can have the AMS on top and remove the top glass.
I did read that the heat was an issue I did try to bump up the bed temperature by 3° on some of those previous attempts with no success but all with the door closed.
I’ll try another one with the pla with everything wide open.
And then I’m going to take one of my refrigeration vacuum pump and stick my pla into a vessel and Degas it and try again.
These factory settings were working previously with this roll of filament so something had to change.
Bambu actually recommends leaving the door open or removing the top when printing PLA. It is definitely related to the heat building up in the closed chamber and affecting the cooling of the filament.
The ambient condition in my office is definitely changed since spring came and I’ve only owned my unit since December. That could be as much as a 4-8° f swing seen then .
I seen bambu recommend that but then I’m not sure what to do when I’m using pet g or pla is an iinterface material for each
I have had some similar issues occasionally. usually if it is going to happen, I notice an issue with the calibration strip. Like @ds690 said I usually clean the plate with isopropyl. When I had the issue, I also turned up the bed temp a little and it solved the issue for that print.
When using the textured PEI plate I’ve only been able to get PLA to stick to the plate if I use the Bambu Lab liquid glue, then everything works great. Washing the plate, wiping with isopropyl alcohol or sanding with #600 grit sandpaper seemed to have no effect on improving first layer adhesion. I pretty much use the textured PEI plate for most of my PLA printing.
Quadruple on the 91% IPA, paper towel, and no touchy the build plate with fingers. Up the bed temp for first layer, and subsequent layers by 10*. Fine tune by 5s if you feel frisky. Use brim, 8mm.
I have really been having good success with that Elegoo Rapid PETG but you will have to remove the cardboard spool. 2 sweeps of painters tape on the face of the filament. Gently peel off the side. Pull off the smaller cardboard disc. Use nippers to cut the inner thread end. Use the nippers to create a bit of a recess on the cardboard core to accept the notch on the reusable spool that you have from Bambu. Insert the half of the reusable spool aligning the nib with the notch. Press down firm. Flip it over. Remove the side and that smaller cardboard disc. Insert the other half of the reusable Bambu spool. Twist to engage. Remove the tape.
Elegoo has more of a satin finish than other PETG. Zero problems with bed adhesion.
Overture comes with acceptable spoils for the AMS. I have had more threading/spaghetti with Overture.
Full disclosure: As you know, still had difficulties with really fine pieces.
Edit: I just remembered that most of my prints that failed from layer adhesion were while printing with “Optimal 0.16 mm) layer” with a 0.4 mm hot end. When I switched to 0.20 mm) layer, it would work. Can’t say it worked every time.
I use the purple elmers glue sticks when necessary and they melt right off the pei plate with just very hot water under the tap. Also trying the hair spray lately. Haven’t done enough variance to say whether it’s a solid option or not but seems to do well with most. It certainly is much neater and easy to clean up as well.
My biggest problem of late is I definitely think I need to get a good dryer as I am noticing problems with filaments that have just been sitting on the rack are not doing well but when first opened they pretty much all printed with very little issue. I’m assuming it’s from moisture.
At the very least you should put them in an airtight container with some desiccant beads (Amazon) once you open the packaging. It’s amazing how much moisture plastic soaks up
There is some next generation printers out there this printer is insane.
Full 3d color prints.
I can only imagine this Tech is going to trickle down to our hobby market in the next couple years.
And supposedly bambu is supposed to release a new flagship product. I’m excited about that.
This multicolor printing without changing filaments is definitely going to be the way of the future.
I’m surprised that companies like Epson or HP or brother or Xerox haven’t come into the 3D printing market yet. So many gigantic established 2D printing companies. Or maybe they’re quietly making acquisitions and waiting till 3D printing is actually high volume and mainstream like 2D printers to jump into the game.
It’s going to be incredible how the entire retail landscape is going to change when it comes to plastic products in the next 10 years. Well I’ve retail stores that’ll have resins and different 3D printing materials in the back and the ability to print an infinite amount of products and store nothing but the raw materials. No packaging. No warehousing,No limit to product SKUs.
It’s also going to make living remote areas much easier.