You insert the bolt such that it completely fits inside the partially printed part. The bolt head doesn’t protude above the current layer. Then you just hit resume.
Just make sure you have plenty of clearance around the bolt so it slides out after the print.
If you don’t have the budget for a Bambu printer, look at the Elegoo Neptune 4. It’s just as fast as the Bambu printers and produces good results for $259 US.
Use the Orca slicer and you’ll have most of the same functionality as the Bambu printers.
Thanks! I am going to send my wife a link to that printer for my Christmas present!
I know you are just starting but let me offer some fusion shortcuts for you…
First you can print any body…it doesn’t need to be a mesh. Heck the other day I needed this sheet metal body for a mock up of another piece and printed it. See the goofy corners for proof
To do it, hover over any body, right mouse click, and select save as mesh
THEN and this is nice, this dialog box will come up.
It is so you can save it as a file, or better (IMO), you can send it to a custom print utility - your slicer. As you can see I use the prusa slicer. So once I hit OK, it ships it automatically to that program and opens it up with this body in the application. Just slice and go…
Any slicer should work.
And you are gonna love the 3d printer. I have had one for years and I find all sorts of practical uses for it.
This is very exciting! I can just guess Tin’s smile is even bigger than usual. Merry Christmas to you.
Now Erik, if you thought you might get in trouble with us mentioning the cost of our upgrades, you are in so much trouble for this whole conversation! I just hope we still see you being able to participate in the forum after the holidays.
I am salivating at this conversation. Love to have a 3D printer: Why? “Because it is my gosh darn right as a (North) American!” 
Orca works great.
@TinWhisperer wait until you start doing multicolor prints.
I do all this in Fusion. Top layer is simple. Bottom layer requires a couple more steps then tweaking in the slicer.
I spoke with friend that plays with this stuff and he’s buying the Bambu P1S for his next machine. He told me the Bambu A1 mini might be good starter unit.
Honestly, I am not sure what that means…not trying to argue either. 3d printing is not the most precise thing to start with and most of the “problems” are from the printer, not the slicer or the model.
And I put problems in quotes as even the flaws mostly do not matter with the current batch of printers and the part looks nice enough and are functional.
So hitting the easy button is well … easier for me and likely most folks.
I understand. STL is simple and fast. Your point about accuracy is true as well. However with layer heights of 0.08mm ( 0.003"), the mesh tessellation might become a surface quality issue.
Fusion can also export 3mf files but these are still meshes.
Steps offer superior resolution
For @TinWhisperer using Bambu Studio with X1C, the work flow is the same. Fusion exports a file (stl/3mf/step) then imports into Studio, then prints. Might as well use step files.
I used stl files for years, only recently did I learn Bambu Studio could import step files.
Print the two color badge. It blew me away with the detail.
So long story short by the end of yesterday I decided to buy a Bambu A1 mini. I don’t care about spending $500 as much as I do about $1500 to see if I even like it. To keep this forum appropriate let’s, see how to incorporate the metal cutting on our tables to plastic printing. I’ve never done anything plastic but already have my eye on making hinges in fusion.
Congrats, the experience so far has blown my mind. I don t sleep much to begin with, and even less now with this amazing idea printing machine in my office. My only regret so far is not buying this machine earlier.
Its so true. I have a all or nothing personality so I may get divorced over this…
We are on the same wavelength . I also thought about having a design “contest” that the project shall have at least one 3d printed component and one plasma cut component. Extra bonus for documenting workflow and using sheet metal bent parts.
@ds690 @djlois @holla2040 @TomWS Have a head start on us.
I already have my “entry” in mind… I planned it out last winter. It is a ski rack for our patrol snowmobile. I have been trying to find a used printer because I have the same condition you have and I don’t want to get divorced over a printer… 
the other option is to have my coworker print me the parts… but I REALLY want to do it myself. The other reason I have been sitting on it almost a year is I want to make it out of aluminum and I have never cut or welded aluminum before. And what I have planned requires both. I have collected a bunch of scrap to practice on so I am almost ready to design. Actually it s a good thing I haven’t made it yet because they told us at our refresher last month they are buying us a new snowmobile this year… still a skidoo so the spacing on the mounting holes for the link system should be the same, but they say it is wider. I will have to think on the printer some more.
I made some steel linQ brackets out of 16ga steel and posted them earlier in summer. Many layers but they worked great on a trailer. He could run them over without concern of messing them up with UTV.
My friend with the X1C got his mini 2 weeks ago and loves it, you will too.
I have…want me to teach you? 
I actually have welded it. Requires Argon gas and I did use the shielding gas. Any attempts without shielding gas and you get a bunch of aluminum bb’s (yes, I did that too).
I started out on a ender 5 pro and have since bought two more enders.I bought a p1p because of the rave reviews and since got another and upgraded both to p1s’s and one ams unitThe Creality machines have been collecting dust and have sold one.I would buy the A1 or another p1s but im waiting for them to release a bigger machine.I absolutely love my bambulabs p1s printers.
