Those cheap staplers are handy as hell for repairs of anything plastic. Stitched parts of my atvs back more than once and they hold up. If it’s cracked, staple it back together again. This doesn’t always look as good aesthetically but functionally it does well
For actual welding I have a full detail set for my leister and as long as you use the correct plastic rod, welding is pretty cool. I’ve modified rv water tanks and welded fittings into tanks and things. You can even just take scraps of broken items, slice them about the right size for rod. Once again, must be a compatible plastic to what you are welding. Basically its a great item to have in your MacGyver toolkit.
I have not had issues with the PLA-CF yet, It does sound louder and grindy while running. The only filament clog I’ve have is the PLA support.
I have very dry air and I follow the recommendations out lined in the Hypertherm PowerMax 85 manual for finecut slow speed consumables. The really trick is the cut height at .02" with a pierce height of .08"
Only nice dry air. @Bigdaddy2166 is running nitrogen with success.
You’ll have a long que of prints once your A1 is up and running. fuzzy skin seems interesting. so many options with Bambu studio
My daughter chose a print today, two piece mushroom that threads together, it holds a tealight.
Another successful print out of the Bambu. My 8 year old daughter was very happy with the results. She popped them off the build plate herself and threaded them together with no problem.
I am really getting excited about this. Downloaded a bunch of files. Did a really crude Fusion 360 to step file and then onto Bambu Studio. That is a nice thing that you can play with Bambu Studio without it being connected to the printer.
It’s for clay. There’s one small change I wish I would have made to the design but we’ll see how it works. I should have just put the slightest bit of draft on the letters
I’m starting to get the workflow figured out myself. Pretty flawless transition between the two programs.
Got the stomp pad for kids snowboard done. I used transparent filament on top. I did 0.5mm layer on the entire design and 2mm tall grips. I wasn’t sure how thick I could go before losing the color of the design.
Plan is to use Urethane adhesives that will hold in all temps.
I couldn’t get around the grips on the stomp pad since it’s to provide better traction and grip for your rear foot when you are getting on and off the chairlift. I figured it would provide la clear protection on top but your correct I would want to go any thicker or color would be gone. Good learning is why I shared.
The desire to hold on to imperial units in the US is baffling to me, as a fellow US citizen.
I started my fabrication journey by building bicycles and everything is metric. I quickly came to like the simplicity of using metric units and fasteners. The biggest issue was that all of my machine tools are in imperial units, so I kept a calculator on my bench for the conversations.
I’ve never seen anyone in a 3d printing forum use imperial measurements for anything.
I found that it leaves a much better finish where the support attached compare to using all the same filament. I sure there are some settings I could tweak to reduce the interface blem.
