I should’ve stated low not no, thanks
No, actually it’s more iron than in alloyed steels. It’s like 98-99% iron. A steel like CPM-S90V is 72-73% iron.
What it’s low in is impurities.
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I’ve always liked the form follows function approach. Decide what you’re going to use it for then follow that thread. Of course we use knives for all kinds of things, so you’ll probably have more than one. I’m thinking the custom one should be something unusual. If it’s already available elsewhere no need for the custom build.
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they do . I like the hammer blades they make and cleavers.
I’ll check some out
I watched a documentary once where they made steel in these large outdoor furnaces. One old master staying up for a couple days overseeing everything. Quite an art.
Something unique. Burly, Bantonable, Defense, Offense, Pry, Hammering, Hatch like, ? I am not settled that is the purpose of this topic is to group knife information and explore ideas .
Sat down Sunday to draw knives seriously for the first time and was experimenting with shapes.
I love this school of thought. reminds me of the Wally yacht company’s ethos.
Thanks keep it coming.
definitely Agree on both accounts.
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Edit: I accidentally erased this post that was above.
'Here is another odd design. I am going to 3D print this one to see how it feels.
1HR 21MINS away from holding it in my hand"
3D print
handle feels nice.
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Thought I’d take another “stab” at a knife design.
and another test print to see how it feels.
The handle on this one feels better than the last.
May try this handle with more traditional blade design next.
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I always like a good front quillon!!! This knife has that. (Probably using the term wrong 
)
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It is similar to the Ulu, used in Alaska
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That bit of the blade by the front of the handle would be hard to sharpen if the handle doesn’t taper to a thinner profile down by the blade. That is unless you plan to sharpen the edge with a more obtuse angle, then it might clear the stone OK.
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That might explain another reason many of the Japanese knives have their handles offset from the blade: provides for easier sharpening.
Just a guess, but it may be that they’re designed to pinch the blade with a couple fingers in front of the handle. I think the pinch grip is more common than the pointed finger grip, but I haven’t polled Japanese chefs.
Form follows function.
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I believe I have this exact ulu somewhere.
Good “point” I will consider that for future iterations.
the robotchef and you maybe brothers looking at the avatars .
Well here is today’s offering
A mod of an earlier design. made a couple adjustments jimmy suggested.
Will print soon and test. Printer is currently busy.
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In my opinion, which is worth exactly nothing when it comes to you designing your own knife, this design or #2 in the first post are the best looking of the ones you have posted. Good shape, handle has texture, but doesn’t look too aggressive. Some 3D contouring of the handle shape so it’s not flat sided, making the radius edge profile that locks in your index finger slightly deeper, and removing completely or enlarging and radiusing the the point on the top edge of the handle (where your thumb or webbing between index finger and thumb will be) are about the only things I’d adjust. And of the 3, the last is the only one that may be important. You may or may not find once your print is done that it’s too pokey and hurts the webbing between thumb and index finger, and may be too small and pokey to give you a good place to put your thumb if you’re really bearing down on something.
Flat sided handles are nice for pocket knives so they’re less bulky in your pocket, but for a knife that’ll be used with a sheath I generally like handles to have some swell to fill the palm.
A deeper finger groove for your index finger will just lock the knife into your hand a little better, but does make it harder to use with alternate grips, so totally your call based on how you expect to use it.
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This recent design has a good look of being versatile yet also has that look that if you were defending yourself, “the bear” would be very concerned for his safety. It is a great design for plunging.
Not that you would be using this for self defense but anything I have read about the use of batons for defense, the most effective blow is a plunging effort. It is a smaller point of impact and is harder to defend against…in case a bear was deciding to attack you. 
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Maybe a bit exaggerated with the finger radius for the index finger, but I’ll be curious how it compares to the other in feel.
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Well hot off the printer the handle feels the best so far. as far as being able to get a firm tight grip on it.
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Looks good.
Given how far forward your thumb can go towards the tip along the spine, you might consider moving the index finger radius towards the rear of the knife. It’ll give you more access to sharpen the edge, and make it less likely for your thumb to slip and end up in the sharpened back edge, unless you’re planning for that to be a bevel, but not ground sharp. Not critical, you’d really have to be monkeying around to slip that far forward.
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