If you’re using Fusion 360 you can go into the manufacturing space.
find your tool paths on the left hand side in the browser bar.
Right click and select edit.
Now you should be able to navigate through that toolpath and see what parameters are applied to it.
Toolpaths are called Operations in Fusion 360.
Example 2D profile 1, 2D Profile 2, etc
The only option I see is in manufacturing, in browser, right click on the setup I’m working on, then left click on new operation, then left click on cutting, then left click on 2D operation. When I do that it resets all my contours which for some reason on my current design it’s way over 100 contours because they aren’t linking together. How do you make sure where your lines touch they are linked for when you select your contours? Should there be a point on the line? No point?
Are you selecting a face of a body or selecting each piece of sketch geometry?
it is where i edit and look over my toolpaths.
Select cancel if you don’t want it to reload the paths.
Can you screen shot what you are talking about? and or post a F3D.
I was selecting all the contours, it will not allow me to select the face of the geometry. When I try to select the face of the sketch it says “error no contour selected”
This first picture it is grouping a bunch of different pieces of geometry in one contour
This picture you can see that it is only putting a contour on just the one piece of geometry and not all of the connected pieces in this loop
And finally it won’t allow me to click on the sketch and select contour, when I hover over the select contour button I get “Error: No contour selected to machine”
My machine torch arrived yesterday for the Primeweld Cut60, so excited only to realize now I need a machine torch mount…This should come with the table. So now I’m waiting for the machine torch mount to arrive. In keeping with their incredible customer service tradition I told Gene at Primeweld that I needed to order a new CNC port adapter (I messed mine up the first time but got it workable) and he said no problem I’ll just toss it in with the machine torch no charge. Primeweld is awesome.
@ds690 has a machine torch mount on thingiverse if you have a 3d printer or know someone who does you could just print it out and you would be up and running.
I already ordered, received and installed the torch mount, customer service at Langmuir for me has been pretty good too. I cut my first piece with the machine torch yesterday, works exactly the same as the hand torch but now I have the hand torch free to do gouging and hand cutting when necessary. I made a video of the machine torch and mount installation and first cut, I’ll post it tonight after I get it edited. I downloaded Todd Kelch’s Punisher flag skull, it was 17.5" x 23" and turned out pretty good. I’m starting to get the hang of Fusion 360.
I finished editing the video of the machine torch and mount installation and the first cut with it.
I watched the whole thing.
It’s great that you’re getting some parts cut out.
I watched your video. Good work!
As I don’t have a machine torch yet…. Is there any way you can see to get that mount attached up on the barrel where it should be? Seems like with Langmuir’s mount you are pretty much stuck clamping to the torch body where the moving parts are?
Just curious if I need to plan on some other modifications before I get the machine torch? I have seen a couple threads where it has been suggested that mounting to the torch body is a no no.
What have others been doing to mount the torch at the barrel?
Attach your work lead directly to material you are cutting, will save you aggravation down the road.
You could probably use the clamp mount from the original torch mount and just screw that to the lower machine torch mount instead of the body mounts in both positions. It might make your torch sit off center a few degrees though. I don’t think it moves fast enough to cause a problem holding it by the body but I’m pretty new to this and have no experience to base that off of.
I think it definitely needs the two points of support.
My question was whether you thought you have the room to make it work clamping it up higher on the barrel with the setup you are using. …or if it was pretty much maxed out where you have it now?
It can go up as high as you want, it clears the stepper motor. I went as high as I could while staying within the lower clamp. I could have used two of the three upper clamp positions but they would have been pretty close together. To answer the question though I could definitely move it further up if necessary.
I really thought it was going to be a quick video, didn’t expect it to stretch to 20 minutes. I probably could have sped up more of the video but I was talking a lot in this one.
Nicely done. You can just call me “YouTube Subscriber #19” from now on. 
-TM
ROFL you gotta start somewhere…
Congratulations on the new torch! Just last week I finished the same process: after having been on the email wait list forever, ordered the torch from PW for my Cut60(delivered 2 days later!); realized I had to order the machine mount (Doh!); put it together and made a few quick test cuts. Worked very good.
In my mounting kit there was an extra allen head screw for replacing the knob that no longer has clearance. Maybe they forgot to pack yours.
I have my motor oriented so the wires come out the back side.
I used some wire corrugated tubing to protect it. I let it hang down just because I’ve read on here about possible interference from the torch wire to the THC wiring. Probably a bit of overkill, but…
I made a background and painted up that first cut from the machine torch installation video. Looking at it now I realize there is an error in the pattern, the bottom red stripe is split in two for some reason. I’m going to redo the file in Fusion and get rid of the split so the next one I cut will be right. Even with the bad cut it still turned out pretty decent.
