I cut a sign that was 24” circle and it was all wonky and offset.
This lead me down a rabbit hole of chasing the perfect circle. I started cutting smaller circles for tests using different settings and doesn’t seem to help.
Others suggested tightening couplers between steppers and lead screws, which ive done. I’ve checked and rechecked these collets and they’re tight.
I just figured out the best settings for minimal dross, so this is my second issue to tackle.
Using crossfire pro
Razorweld 45
Machine torch
Air 100psi / 80psi at internal regulator
75 ipm
31amps
Fusion360
I’ve tried using smoothing and tried playing with the other setting for slowing down the ipm during rounded cuts and circles and didn’t seem to help. (Couldn’t remember name)
That’s definitely losing steps from either coupler slip or binding in what looks like the Y axis. Unless the piece has been rotated, then I would suspect that the X axis lead nut bracket is loose.
I wouldn’t be using brake clean for cleaning; it will make plastic brittle, and some will chemically melt plastic. When assembling you pro did Y and X carriage push easy by hand before installing lead screws? If not, bearings are too tight and will cause binding in spots.
Thanks. I’m looking at the best way to verify square now that water pan and everything have been added. It’s not obvious to me.
But in looking, I found my x-axis carriage has a bit of play where the mount connects to x-axis lead screw.
My brain is telling me that this should have play in it, but I don’t recall. Thoughts?
That needs to be tight and perfectly square to the X axis rail. If it’s not tight, it will screw up any directional changes in X. If it’s not square to the rail, it will bind in X
Correct there should not be any play in it. Calibrating the x is very important. You’ll need to pay attention while doing it, that you don’t over tighten the bearings in one spot. You want to check the x axis squareness and bearings at at least three spots on the gantry. I believe per Langmuirs instructions, only two bearings need to be in contact at a given point.
There was a part in the assembly instructions where you bump the x gantry into the stanchions and then secure the couplers. This is when you essentially squared the x to the y, assuming your stanchions were the same distance apart.
I can bump my machine out of square by pushing one side, and can bring it back by pulling on the side. I believe some people bump theirs out of square by ramming the carriage into the stanchions since they may not be perfectly even from side to side.
Thanks everyone!
I think I had an issue with it binding when tight at first.
I spent some time this evening doing some tinkering and adjusting and I’m happy to say that we have less lemons and more actual ROUND circles.
Thanks a tons everyone!!
