Crossfire pro en route. RW45 with machine torch. 60gal 12.8cfm comp with harbor freight air dryer. I found a spare 50 amp dual breaker to use on the cutter. 30a breaker for the compressor.
I got this system for a project that i would normally send to water jet but it was going be a $4000min water jet expense so I get a new toy almost paid for on the first project.
Local supplier stocks .25 and .120” A36 which would suit my project needs for strength, but the project is in a condo on the beach in south Florida. I’m looking at options to spray it now that I have air. Galvanizing is not my first choice as I need to glue some quartz panels to some of the 1/8 steel panels (36”x12” ) and galvanizing can be funny about sticking to glue and paint. I’d prefer the glue sides to be bare metal. The steel is not visible but I need to mitigate rust. Powder coat the exposed side and leave bare the glue side ? I’m holding out hope there is some paint I can use.
1/4” 4x8 sheet is $275ish and 1/8 is $150 both A36. Stainless 4x cost. Any hope of spraying A36 black for something in a condo on the beach 25 floors up they might avoid rust?
Any big difference cutting stainless vs A36 ?
I know fusion pretty good and have it ready to save gcode.
Is sheet cam worth looking at since most of what I can find for pecks/center punch says SC is better for that. Much reading and no definitive fusion peck method yet.
I can drive over and grab 4x8 sheets easy. Cut sizes are a week lead times. Handling 4x8 1/4 would be a chore by myself. Anyone got tricks for loading a 4x8 off the ground to a machine with roller stands on front and back for support? An alternative to picking up a sheet is to buy a hand torch and cut the sheets while in the trailer to 3 pieces 32x48” and then it’s easier to move around. 275$ for the extra hand torch.
I was meaning black spray paint since I have air in my shop now. But sending to powder coat is an option, I have used pc before it just adds time and money.
I will have holes drilled in the quartz to cement some bolts into through the steel sheets, so the sheets will have some mechanical support. But I want to glue as much surface area of the steel as well and drill lots of holes and slots in the steel so the glue goes into the holes for better grab. But you think the a36 will rust on the glue side without paint or pc? I am not involved in the quartz gluing to the steel, that’s the stone guys job.
From what I have seen everything on the coast rusts, even if painted or P/C it just a matter of how long.
The price of paint is high if you prep it correctly. Get some quotes on P/C and make sure you tell them that its on the coast as they should prep it differently
VEVOR Magnetic Lifter, 1320 lbs/600kg Pulling Capacity, 2.5 Safety Factor, Neodymium & Steel, Lifting Magnet with Release, Permanent Lift Magnets, Heavy Duty Magnet for Hoist, Shop Crane, Block, Board Amazon.com
I use one of these. The one I have is rated for 2200 lbs. It picks up a 5x9 1/2 A36 plate without a problem.
Of course, you don’t need one that powerful.
A motor crane and this is a good choice.
For me sending to PC is 6s vs painting myself. When you consider the prep time it’s a no brainer. Maybe your area is different but for sure it’s worth looking into.
So there isn’t a spec on attaching the building cladding?
I know adhesives have come along way but I would feel allot better with a mechanical fastener.
I am giving the stone guys a hole pattern and they are drilling whatever holes I want. 1/2” diameter 5/8 deep. So they will fill the holes with their preferred stone epoxy, put in my steel plates, push in 1/4-20 bolts through the steel into the glued holes.
The IBC requires steel exposed to the elements(ie not in a conditioned space) to be coated. As @Knick pointed out even when coated it’s just a matter of time. Especially in the coastal areas.
I posted these a while back. Taken from a building I was doing a structural evaluation on in Hawaii. Pretty common there. I’m sure there is allot of this type of thing in FL as well. you don’t want your name on something that looks like this.
Edit: if this is a new building or a permitted renovation I’m pretty sure the coating will be in the SPEC.
I actually allow the heavy metal (10 and 12 gauge steel) to rest in a horizontal rack (my plywood rack that I built for cabinet work). If it was on the ground I would cantilever the sheet into a horizontal position about 20 inches tall. This will give you a chance to manipulate it laterally on some sort of transport device.
For 1/2" steel I have used my tractor with forks. The piece was actually 20" x 96" and it worked great.
For 10 gauge mild steel 4x8 sheet I use this table with adjustable height, by myself (no problem). It has the weight capacity for the 1/4" 4x8 sheet (~350 pounds). I added 4" wheels vs the 3" wheels that came with it. Specs included below.
Yeah you do if you are only using one. I use two…always. Not enough meat on the plate for the magnet to stick to, and once the plate starts to bow, it lets go in short order.
I use my service truck crane to move the plate around. Dropped more than one due to the bowing and sudden stops when moving with only one magnet, and anything thinner, yeah buddy it pops off easy.
Let me clarify, yes it can and will pick up a sheet (just one) but for safety reasons, especially if you are lifting this up more than 2’, it is better to either have two magnets and balance the load lengthwise, or use “F” clamps and a lifting chain.
I have two magnets too. I have not used them in awhile as it seems easier to just slide the sheet off the forks.
I do agree with Sticks on thin sheets with just one its probably going to fall.
for me getting the magnets centered is kind of time consuming. If I was doing 3/8 or 1/2 I would use magnets.
1/4" and under just pick up in rack and slide on table, but I do have a XR table
Thanks for the ideas. I ordered the hand torch so I can just cut up a large sheet on the trailer and move it by hand. If I get into larger parts that would benefit from loading full sheets I’ll revisit the magnet concept.
That’s how I manage the sheets I buy (4 x 8 and 4 x 10). I place two sets of jack stands about 1-3 feet away from the rear of the trail and slide my sheets out on to those, depending on how much I am cutting off. Clamp on a straight edge and go!
you don’t want your name on something that looks like this. 
