First cuts with HT 45XP

Hey All,
Upgraded to Hypertherm 45XP + machine torch today, and making first test cuts and getting tools created in F360, etc. The Langmuir CPC cable made it a simple, instant upgrade.

First cuts on 1/4" mild steel are beautiful quality. What dross there was fell off @ 40ipm.

I am working on my bevel angles to see if I can reduce them any.
I haven’t calculated the angle yet - but the average I measured is about 18 thou (max - min)

What has your experience been ? I am guessing I cannot hope for much better than that ?
Let me know if you think I should chase any settings or let well enough alone :slight_smile:

Is that bottom picture oriented in the way it was cut? If so having a bevel like that “/“ (on the right side of object) I believe means your cut height is too low. Are you entering the nominal voltage that’s in the HT cut chart? I haven’t cut 1/4” with my HT yet so can’t say if it’s normal amount of bevel, the cut quality looks great though

Hypertherm says 1-3 degrees on the good side of the cut and 3-8 degrees on the bad side which is why cut direction is so important. I think .018 over .25 inches ends up being like 4 degrees. Cuts sure look good to me.

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I have yet to test/verify the “actual” cut height. It is set to 0.06 per HT chart.
I should run through that test/setup… I know someone posted g-code for doing that here somewhere that I did last year for my previous machine…

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Also I will try nominal vs smart voltage

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What do you post process with we just posted 2 in another thread a couple days ago. The program I posted was done in sheetcam with a cut height of .060 with .020 backlash.

It is the thread where Casey was having trouble cutting 3/8.Trouble cutting 3/8” with Crossfire Pro and Primeweld Cut60 - #166 by Wsidr1

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Typically F360 but I also sometimes use sheetcam.

I’ll check out the suggested thread.

I wasn’t really suggesting I thought the bevel was excessive, just whether the group thought I might be able to improve upon it much.

If you’re using nominal voltage.

This is totally moot if you’re using nominal voltage.

Smart voltage yes absolutely critical you figure out your backlash

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Regarding @Phillipw’s recommendation, if you did your post in Fusion you are cutting at 0.080”, because they automatically add .020” backlash AFTER the z axis backlash has been taken up. Further, if you had programmed in any IHS spring-back in, then your cut height is most likely raised by that amount additionally on 1/4”.

LSS-Make sure you’re compensating for the 0.020” backlash added automatically in Fusion’s post.

You don’t test anything if you run nominal voltage, your THC will automatically adjust the height to achieve the intended voltage. Running nominal voltage right from the HT cut chart takes lots of guess work out of getting setup properly, as long as your THC reads the voltage properly.

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That is why since I started using a hypertherm i never use smart voltage. Their cut charts are really top notch.

@bbaley tin is exactly right. In my opinion it is worth just knowing backlash in case.

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Ahhh, so that’s why these Hypertherm guys have the pristine cuts right out of the box. :grinning: Jealous.

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Yea having a very detailed cut chart from the manufacturer makes so many issues go away

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Not to mention hypertherm is a excellent machine.

Also I can’t knock on the rw45 that’s where I started. It never let me down. Still use it to hand cut.

It is all in what you know. Remember the old saying " it’s not how you stand by your car it’s how you drive your car".

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And four times a consumable life.

Also uses less wattage for the same cutting power.

Typically a little leaner on air consumption if you look at the charts

Internal fault diagnostics.

Automatically adjust air pressure for cutting operation

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@Teknic @Phillipw I’ll work with Nominal Voltage and see how it goes!

The machine torch cable on the 45XP is a big stiff beast. Need to get that attached in a way that doesn’t tweak anything. My previous cutter cable was very very flexible and lighter.

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Yea that cable is pretty heavy definitely make sure your Z isn’t wobbly as that’ll lead to weird cuts.

The auto air is super nice too. I literally never interact with the thing besides replacing consumables, it’s such a great feeling that it requires 0 tinkering

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will check z axis for wobble.
probably about time I went through all the moving parts and checked/adjusted…

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Yea definitely good to go around and check all your key moving parts every now and then especially when making big changes. With the Z I only really check for wobble around cutting height, chased my own tail for a while trying to have 0 wobble along its whole travel when all that really matters is whether it wobbles where it cuts

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