The breaker tripped one time out of many many attempts.
The plasma came with a nema 6-50 style plug that matched the existing receptacles.
I am no electrician, and have a novice level understanding of needs or necessities in that field, although I do have some friends in the trade. I had one of them at my shop helping me wire up the compressor and he mentioned we could upgrade the panel if needed. I assume he put too much faith in my understanding and didnt take a glance at the specifications on my plasma.
I am using Fusion 360 for drawings. Thinking about it, I should start another thread in the software sub forum before I take this thread into another topic / direction.
I own a Miller Generator / Welder as part of my mobile setup. I will try to power the machine from there in between now and the panel being upgraded to see if that will help with the fault showing up. That has a 50amp breaker slapped in there.
Thank you for your patience. I’m eager to learn and become the grumpy guy yelling at the new guys one day.
By the way, I’m 30 and just starting out with my welding / fab business. Live in a small town in Southern California called Somis. Love beer, tools, and anything out in the dirt. Cheers.
Since you don’t know the “why” or “where for” of how that particular receptacle got put there, you might need to investigate further to make sure that the wire is actually suitable for whatever breaker you use.
This chart is for copper wire:
As quoted by my current, favorite wordsmith on this site @GaltsGarage: "We’ll see how this holds up, it’s definitely probably most likely not code. "
So I made it through another project on “limp mode”. I’ve got my electrician showing up Monday to assess and conquer.
He also installed a VFD I had for my lathe and mill. Every time I close the door on the sub-panel enclosure it cuts power so he has to fix that as well.
Side note. If you’ve ever wanted to go for an adventure before you’re dead, Baja California is awaiting.
I have tun both the 52i and the 62i…runnin with the 62i now…
things to know that I have learned after having Everlast units for 5 years…
dry air…dry dry air…people often say they have a dry system…but often they do not…here is a pocture of my drying system which is followed by a 1 quarts beaded desiccant dryer and a motorguard filter…went from 500 pierces to over 1500 and over 2 hours cut time per consumable
next is the post flow…run posgt flow for 30 seconds at all times…the heads can overheat and warp easily. buy a spare toch head just in case you warp one out…I always have one.
everyone is right…your breaker and power may be a real cause of your issues…
do not use off shore consumables…use the right ones from the supplier…
I’ve upgraded the system to 50amp and yet I run into the same fault. Low voltage blah blah. I’m going to have to look at how I hobo rigged the Langmuir to the everlast.
The frustrating part is that it will work fine for a while, when I get into the 2 minute mark of torch time is when it will spontaneously fault, and when I try and restart on half cooked material it doesn’t register properly.
My thoughts are
A. Slight warp in material throws off ignition due to differential in distance from torch. (Even though I paid for THC)
B. Temperature sensor somewhere is tripping due to overload. (Even though per literature I’m well within tolerance)
Either way Im pretty disappointed in my experience so far. I’ve paid the cash, I’ve put in the effort, and Im putting in the extra credit.
Nothing good comes easy and you get what you pay for. Irritated with Everlast and their CNC port that doesn’t work with this machine, or maybe im irritated with Langmuir that their machinery doesn’t support their voltage so and so.
Either way im not a software engineer, nor am I in the field of pulling rabbits out of my ass. Calling them has been a fruitless nightmare and I wish I would have spent the extra few thousand bucks for a turnkey machine where I can make money instead of scratching my ass like a Simpsons character.
There have been folks on here with somewhat similar stories and realized they had a voltage drop fault due to competing appliances “kicking on” and robbing amperage from their garage.
So, no possible relation to compressor, home or garage AC, clothes dryer, etc? How many amps feeding you garage?
Not getting regular faults anymore, just having a hard time with the machine not running at full amperage.
Periodically the machine decides it doesn’t want to switch from its starting amperage of 23A. I am not sure why the machine starts every cut at 23A, but it does. Most of the time it will engage high gear and click up to my 45A setting, sometimes it takes a blink, other times up to 2 seconds. Worst is right now as I right this it just will not go above 23A no matter what I set the machine to.
Is there somewhere in the CAM process that is making the machine start at this low amperage? When I use the machine manually it just starts blowing holes at my desired amperage.
Thank you in advance for your patience, I am still learning one run of parts at a time.
I would guess you need to check your cut and pierce height. If you are using THC, the system is measuring in the first 0.25 inches to decide what your voltage should be. If the torch is too close to the metal, it will draw more amperage and thus will decide to rise. If it rises too much, then it senses that it needs to drop.
IHS (Initial height sensor/setting) may be sticking or the torch is not able to go low enough to trigger the plate touch and then just “assumes.”
What do your cuts look like? Dross, bevel?
Stop the cut by pressing the space bar, this will stop the torch and FireControl progressing with the program and leave the torch in the same position. Measure with feeler gauge.
The 23 amp reading your seeing is the pilot arc. If its not transferring to the cutting arc it is not sensing the work clamp/positive (also referred to as the ground). Always make sure your work clamp is on good clean metal. The metal being cut not on the table or slats.
I believe you have your drag shield on. This will throw off the cut height considerable.
And, was a cut program in process when you hit the space bar? That is how you need to test. A tape measure will not measure 0.06 inches. You are showing more than 0.25 inches right there.
You will need something like this to measure the cut height:
