Jim,
I love my Milwaukee grinder. but that trigger lock is of the devil! when I want it to lock it never locks. now if I’m grinding in s tight space and I don’t want it to lock…bet you it locks it’s self 5 out of 8 times. 
But it’s a great grinder otherwise.
Agreed. I mistakenly called it the “on” switch. You are right: it is the lock button. The one thing good about it is you don’t have to fiddle with the “on” button with some other mechanism to turn the grinder on. But with those longer grinding projects, who wants to squeeze that barrel the entire time?
I see that Milwaukee safety switch in the background: gorilla glue and a tie wrap. Twenty minutes later, your problem is over…
It is a little more complicated. If I glue it, I can never “lock” it on. A partial press allows using the paddle switch. A deeper push of the button and gradually release the paddle and then it is locked “ON.” But any sudden bump and it loses the lock.
With all the grinding I do, I need to have the ability to lock it ON. I will be thru these discs in 2 days. 
Not Serious 
How much grinding do you do Jimmy? I have never in 40 years had to lock a grinder button on.
Depends how pretty I want my welds to look!!! 
I don’t have the fancy magnetic hold-downs that you guys have. Lots of time, I am grinding with one hand and holding the metal with the other. OSHA would love to watch that, I am sure.
On second thought…forget that I explained that to ya! I will tell you that “I just superglued the lock-button in place.”
We love you Jimmy. You make me smile every day.
You might have big hand syndrome!
I do. I have to special order 3 XXL Tig gloves. The good thing is they don’t steal them at work.
Problem with that set up it that nut setting very proud above the disk. That is the big advantage of Combi click
Totally agree and I think of that thick nut every time I put it on, including today. I guess I have just gotten used to the angle that avoids hitting it because I rarely do.
You will get more full use out of the surface of the disc than I will. The downside of that portion of the disc toward the center is that it is moving much slower and tends to act like a coarser grade of disc material.
You will learn that skill of avoiding the nut in the 7th level mastery course at the grinders academy!
the problem with that nut is it makes you tip the grinder up to avoid hitting it. That in turns makes it almost impossible to keep from putting groves in what your grinding. Only matters on nice stuff.
Flap disc also keeps the nut clear but that center hole is much bigger.
I have to admit, I stopped using grinding discs, as a general rule, because of that very thing. I have the flapper discs, the brillo pad type and the fibered spider web type. I may not like how these perform. Probably not going to be using the “lock-on” position much.
You got me to check. There is enough of an angle to the disk face that the nut is not hit but the bolt could be. Certainly something to watch for.
@ChelanJim Working with big nuts is a different level of skill.
Is that a double entendre? I had to look up that word.
I have a 9 inch grinder that the shaft did the same thing when using a grind disk with a hub. I put a washer behind it so I could flat grind the surface of blocks when needed
Here is what I use, Jimmy.
for me its not the nut hitting that causes the problems its the tipping of the grinding disk to keep from hitting the nut that causes grooves. That disk needs to lay perfectly flat to grind flat
