Drain valve for water table

thanks!..

@TomWS is it a 0 to 20 psi regulator? I haven’t been able to find a 0 to 5 PSI one. How much do the sides of your tank bulg when filling? Thanks!

Both good questions, first answering the second questions, yes, even at just s few PSI, the tank bulges so I put a pair of ‘U’ frames over it to contain the swelling. The tank probably would have been ok, but it certainly didn’t look OK.
Re the pressure regulator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHF6ZD6
You will need to remove the fitting on the input side of the regulator and replace it with an adapter to 1/4" FTP thread. I forget exactly which adapter, but it might have been this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DKK2J5G

To lift the water (without creating a shower) the few inches to the water table, you only need about 2.5 PSI. Anything else is potentially problematic IMO.

2 Likes

Thanks. I put mine in a storage bin in case it blows a fitting. I don’t want to ever have to clean up 10 gallons off the floor if the tank blows. :). I am using an air pressure regulator but as you know its not great at regulating low pressure.

1 Like

Has anyone successfully installed a sub-flush drain so that all of the water drains? Do you have pictures and/or links to the drain fittings you used?

Here’s what I did:

You’ll have to scroll down a bit in the thread to see how I fitted it up. Best way to do it? Probably not, but it’s been working great for me.

Brazing that pipe in there and then sanding it flush is genius! …but way beyond my skill level… haha

Van stone flanges work great.

1 Like

I went ahead and ordered two of those from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Spears-Fitting-Flange-Schedule-Spigot/dp/B00ALMLVBE

1 Like

Yep that will do it. You will need to cut a spacer with the table, or stack some gaskets. I stacked two gaskets to get the seal.

Did you use 1/2" bolts to attach it?

I believe so. I ordered flange bolts since the initial bolt/washer setup leaked… obvious now lol.

Looks like the flange he order is 1/2 inch. Mine are 1 inch.

No, i ordered 1" flanges, maybe have copied the wrong link, same product though. And yeah, i had to do the same thing as you, i had to stack gaskets to prevent leaking and also prevent the water table from bowing. I’m not a craftsman, but here is my result:

I forgot to take a picture of the middle gasket.

Update: The two-layer gasket combo wasn’t enough and it started bowing the table, going to try three layer (two large center holes, one small center hole).

Update2: Here is the triple-layer gasket. I’m still waiting for the PVC cement to fully cure, so i won’t be able to test for leaks until the morning.

Update3: I can tell it will leak before even finishing putting it together, the inside pipe in the flange isn’t squeezing tight enough against the table… I’m completely at a loss, now…

Update4: I kept the three-layer gasket, but added huge washers on the top side to allow more torque on the bolts and prevent the rubber washers from squeezing out. I was able to get 10ft-lbs on the bolts, so we’ll see if they leak when I fill 'er up tomorrow. :slight_smile:

Update5: No leaks!

2 Likes

I did not use gaskets. Instead, I used 3M 5200 fast-cure Marine Sealant… No issues!

@Cletus, what size bolts did you use? I’m inclined to make only 1/4" holes in the table and use 1/4-20 truss head screws and sealant under the heads before tightening. I’ve never used the 3M 5200 before so I have no idea how much ‘goop’ to use in the Flange bolt holes.

I used 1/4"x2 " SS carriage bolts. Made aluminum top-hat bushings for the flange holes. Was very liberal with the 5200. The 5200 is VERY messy and gets EVERYWHERE, use Isopropyl Alcohol for cleanup.

1 Like

I just ordered the gaskets when I got the flanges from McMaster carr. I used flange bolts up top with rubber washers under them. No leaks.

I’m a big fan of 3M 5200 :rofl:

guys…all I did was cut the drain hole large enough to drop in a SS kitchen sink drain…


used a little plumbers putty under the flange edge on the top on the drain…

used the gaskets provided with the drain assembly…and voila…a drain…

it is almost flush with the table inside…1/16" higher tan the table bottom…no nuts in the way…no gaskets to cut…no marine epoxy…it is all stainless…cheap and easy…it also gives me 1-1/2" drain capacity…drains like a toilette bowl almost.

4 Likes

I did one better. I used my TIG to weld the two pans together and cut the same hole for the SS sink drain and just welded it in place. No putty, no screws and never any leaks. Buffed down the weld so it drains great!

1 Like