So you must attach the thermocouple to the part correct?
The thermocouples are at different levels in the oven. CureControl maintains the temperature at your preset setpoint. The timer starts when the part and the oven are at your setpoint. The timer then clicks off after the cure is finished.
1 Like
So itâs sensing air temp not part temp?
1 Like
Still waiting on answers here.
Whatâs closing the control loop to the heating element(s)? Solid State Relays or Mechanical Contactors?
Does the controller have programmable ramp rate(s) and set/hold temp level(s) capability?
Hey @apynckel,
It is solid state relays that control the loop and for now the controller does not have controllable ramp rates yet but we are looking into for a future update. The set/hold temp is by manual input and it will hold temp within 5 degrees F of the set temperature to a max temp of 475.
2 Likes
Yes, that is correct.
1 Like
Hey John. Yeah, it has been a while. The powder coat oven looks really interesting. 30 x 30 x 30 is a great size. I will definitely be getting another Langmuir product. The VF 2 is doing great. Working on some prototypes currently for some new products. We got a ginormous welding job back in November, which lasted till March so that took up a lot of our time, but it help make some good money and invest in the shop so things are doing fairly well. Things have gotten a little slower, but that allows us to concentrate on these new prototypes that weâre trying to get out. How about you. How have you been doing?
2 Likes
The biggest expenses for powder coating can be the air system to do blasting, next is the oven and then that can also depend on what Powder application system you go with. There are some affordable options for powder guns under 1000 that can do multiple colors and coats (like metallic and chrome colors). When it comes to blasting if all you have is 15 or less CFM then you are probably going to invest in chemicals for removing powder and coatings. It takes industrial CFM to strip powder coat. Itâs not as simple as rub it with scotch brite and ready to powder like all the stupid eastwood ads make it seem like (and please do not buy any of their guns).
1 Like
I dont think Richard will be blasting to remove Powder, I think he would be doing bare steel.
Rob do you blast everything that you P/C? If not, do you prep another way?
I do very little blasting for powder coat, depending on part size I may blast welds in areas I cant clean easily.
I will say blasting give the best surface finish for powder, but it adds a lot of time to the process.
What did you mean by this? What gun cant do multiple colors and what does the gun have to do with multiple coats?
So sand blasting goes in regards to powder coating - Most all objects you want to powder coat need a surface prep for the mechanical adhesion to work best. Blasting is the time honored tradition. It does not take a lot to surface blast. HF cabinet and a 5 HP compressor will be OK as long as you do some good moisture control in your air. Working with plasma that should be easy. There are some chemical processes but you need a sprayer system, area to blast, its nasty, and I see more problems then solutions with that, personally. I think if you had a proper dipping solution and a commerical trrack system it works best. Not so much in the home shop with a garden sprayer and a power washer. Think of the surface prep as the tooth you want on metal when you prime and paint it but it also has to be clean of grease and any chemicals that will disrupt the powder bonding process. Powder coat has a process called crosslinking. I wonât bore you with the details but it is essentially a epoxy like bond between the metal surface and the colored polymer of the powder. Because of this it is extremely durable, and really hard to just blast off. When you see the commercials on the car shows for dustless blasting, that is essentially the type of setup you need to remove powder coat (dry or wet). Dry is better because your metal will start flash rusting unless you have chemical additives and there we are at that problem with chemicals on the surface. I have a local guy that does auto body and Rhino-liner and he does all my heavy blasting because I just donât want to invest the money or have the space and he uses a dry sand blast in a room the size of most guys shops. If you canât fit it in a blast cabinet you need a blast pot and those are a pain in the balls more often than not. You still need a lot of clean dry air and higher than average pressure. Think in the range of what operates a air powered jack hammer on a construction site unless you want to blast 5 minutes at a time. It may be OK for spots with weld but youâll still need to blast the complete surface for the best adhesion. Itâs never as easy as some of the videoâs make it seem, especially eastwood stuff. Not to rag on them but they make it seem like you can do it in your own home oven with a little simple green and scotch brite or sand paper. You could but it wonât be a finish you want to warranty. Good for home brew projects and things you might consider redoing in the future as your equipment resources improve⌠Ultimately the size of what you have to blast dictates the size of the blaster setup. I have a 3.5 hp compressor and Eastwood blast cabinet that I bought off maraketplace and modifiged with a foot pedal, gravity feed hopper, and Skat blast gun and dust collector. The compressor is my weak link for now but it works and I canât stand in one spot for more than about 30 minutes and then I need to break off and get some water and chill for a few so it works out. Eventually the motor is going to burn up and I will replace it with a 100 % duty cycle 5 HP unit. Same with the air pump, lol⌠The tank size is fine at 60 gallons, plus I have a second I can pipe in once I build my back yard shop.
So as far as multiple coats and powder guns go, there are different types of powders. Some are callede RAL colors and they are industrial colors made for construction grade envioronment. Things like Cat yellow, JD Green, etc etc. They are UV proof and go on thick and abrasion reseistant. Then you have other colors that are candy colors, chromes variants, and all kinds of metallics. Most of those require a clear coat as well as an undercoat. Items that are in high rust or salt areas can often get a coat of zinc or corrosion resistant primer under the color, so each layer the gun needs to be able to be adjusted accordingly to ensure proper Electrostatic adhesion. Cheaper guns do not have the adjustability to increase or decrease the range of those voltages and amps. There are a few budget guns that are sub 1000 dollars that perform well. Royal Coats and Columbia Coatings are two of those brands, but there are other brands that are 4 to 5 times that price and they are oriented towards production powder coating, where you do a higher volume and buy like a 50 pound box of powder and you just drop a plunger like device into it and it just sucks the powder right out of the box. Most of the sub 1000 ones will only deal with like 1 to 5 pounds at a time and you have to scoop it out and add it to a hopper. Feel free to sheet me a message if you want to discuss more or have any other questions. Iâm no expert but I play one on TV 
2 Likes
And sorry for the wall of text.
Paragraphs are your friend
3 Likes
wow thats a lot of info for 2 questions
So just to be clear you understand the gun has nothing to do with how many coats you are applying or what color. A cheap gun will apply as many coats and the same colors as expensive gun
Donât want newbies to get confused.
As far as blasting I agree it gives the best surface finish.
I agree
Commercial coaters acid wash to achieve a surface suitable for powder. Especially if on a automated line. Unless of course you blast it before you take it there.
Using a mild acid like iron phosphate on carbon steel is very safe and has no smell and can be used at home.
I am getting sick of typing so I am going to copy and pastes a few other corrections.
RAL numbering is just a color matching system. Does not have anything to do with type of powder
RAL numbers, often seen in industries like construction, design, and manufacturing, refer to a color matching system developed in Germany. The system uses a unique numerical code (e.g., RAL 9011) to identify and communicate specific colors, allowing for precise color communication and matching across different products and materials.
Correct most cheaper guns dont have a way to control Micro amps but for someone with a home shop doing small parts, they can still give good results.
1 Like
With my experience cheaper guns struggle to do multiple coats unless you hot flock parts. Which is a sin in the powder coating world.
The adjustability of the settings is what helps to do multiple coats.
The gun I have the best I remember advertised 14 coat capabilities which I seriously doubt so I have never tested.
My first gun was from harbor freight I would never dream or attempt doing a topcoat or multi coat job.
2 Likes
My Redline EZ100 is a great gun. Turning the kv output up and down helps. It is not a Wagner, but still almost $600 vs $3000 for the Wagner setup. My EZ50 works well, also, but has fewer features
All my powder-coating is new, manufactured parts. I have yet to bead blast a part.
Do you use iron phosphate to chemical etch?
1 Like
Yes, scuff up the parts with sandpaper. I use iron phosphate before the zinc primer coat on all my aluminum parts. All my powders are prismatic.
I have never had an issue with the powder-coated part failing. Doing a 56 Chevrolet with a rusty, pitted frame is a different story.
1 Like
That is generally the way most commercial coaters do. Now the guys doing rims and such the always blast. High end parts get high end treatment.
As far as the powder coating peeling it would take time. As long as you are sanding and using iron phosphate you wouldnât see a issue unless you over or undercook the parts.
Right now powder coating did do a lot of educational videos until he started getting sponsored. Unknown coating uses to as well last I looked he fell off doing videos.
As a whole I believe bead blasting is excellent. My larger pieces I always sand to etch them.
1 Like
Hmmmmm maybe I have never used a cheap enough gun.
1 Like
I am able to normally achieve desired mills with 2-3 coats.
And I guess I should also admit I donât check milll thickness very often as I spray the same black 80% of the time
1 Like