Stanstion Plates.dxf (164.3 KB)
maybe thats how???
Also need to say i got the file from the user directioneast, big thanks to him.
this solved my problem with a three inch tall waterpan.
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I ended up making the new stanchion plates on my mill this weekend and installed them yesterday. Everything looks good so far so hopefully I can get this table finished up and try it for the first time. I made my stanchion plates 2" taller than the original ones were.
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I made my water table 3" bigger front and back and as big as the frame would let me on the sides. Its held down by a clamp style setup i welded together on the bottom. I made it deeper as well as built in a sump on the back with a 2" drain valve that leads to a 20 gallon 12 volt strayer I got off of FB market place. I have different layers of filter materials in the sump so i can quickly draw , clean and be able to reuse my coolant. The 12 volt pump works great to fill my table back up as well as i can still use the spray wand to wash all the slag into the filters. I also have valves to pump the coolant up to the cutter head to keep everything cool and have two 3/4" pipes in the back corners for overflow drains for while its cutting and pumping coolant continuously. Figured id share incase someone else wanted to try it out.
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Very nice. That is a great idea. Kudos’
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that is soooo cool…could I make a suggestion for your refill line…plumb it right into your drain bowl dian line…
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What material did you use? The sides look around 1/8". And it looks like you welded the sides all the way around to the base plate?
I blew a few holes through my pan across the top of the seam, so welding the seam from the top wouldn’t have helped. I was cutting some AR500 1/2" plate at 65 amps & pretty slow. I was able to get a functional fix by TIG welding the bottom (so no water to keep it cool) I ended up with a potato chip, but I was able to clamp it back down with the mounting screws. I put some 1/8" pieces of sheet to line the bottom to avoid new holes. I had a few marks where it was warm (discolored metal) on the bottom of the pan as well, but no holes there.
I’ve been contemplating doing plain cold roll carbon steel in 1/8", bent by my local supplier so all I need to do is weld the corners & punch a hole for a drain & dimple that.
I drain after every use & use SterlingCool in the water. My slats & supports are still rust-free after a year of use, so I thought maybe stainless wouldn’t be needed.
Mine is 1/8" steel fully welded. The original was just not to my liking but i understand it has to be shipp able. I did weld the original but no matter what style of welding and setting it distorted. So i just built what i wanted. I don’t cut anything over 1/2" ar plate but if i was Going to be throwing a lot of amps at it. I would narrow the sides of mine about a half inch and make the sides as tall as i could and still miss all the moving parts. That way you could run your coolant even with the top of your plate your cutting on. Would keep everything cool and give you more coolant to keep from hitting the bottom of your pan.
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I was afraid of that happening to me when I first setup my table. So I took one of the Harbor Freight welding blankets and cut into strips and laid them over the seam. Cheap insurance and easy to replace.
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Would any of you all want to see all the mods and stuff i done to my water table. I could make a post and show pics of everything and maybe a video of how everything works on it. Didn’t know if anyone would be interested or not.
Absolutely!! Please do!! Everyone here, I think, is interested in a mod or great idea you have done with your table… If for no other reason… Show off your hard work!
My $.02
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Thanks. Ill try and round up all the pics and information i have and get something put together for you all. Plus i just redesigned my coolant head to get a better flow. Its helped a lot to keep thin metal from moving around Plus i can basically pick up the parts by hand after cutting. Not to mention it has drastically knocked down the metal vapor in the air an cut down on the noise level. Also made a bracket to hang my plasma underneath the table.
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@Bansheeman213 I find the coolant head to be quite intriguing. With access to a 3D printer, perhaps a head design to flow a “cone” of coolant entirely encircling the cutting head? -Steve
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The coolant head is definitely a very nice add on. Thats my third one. First and second were similar without the nozzles on it. The main issues with the first ones were i just made a loop that butted up to itself. It had decent flow on the last few holes but the coolant flowed to fast and basically skipped the first few holes. Making the coolant flow from both sides of the loop and the nozzles to help control the flow helped a lot. Hardest part was silver saudering everything together.
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Sorry it took me so long but i did a clean out and figured this would be the best time to shoot you all a video. If there is anything you see you want to know more about just let me know.
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tht is a cool set up no doubt.
love the overflow setup…
I do hope you have a secondary plasma “ground” clamp for actually clamoping to the metal…
clamoing to the table is not the best option…I would add a second clamp to be able to clamp to the metal being cut.
I say that as the slats and the table will get a coating on them ans slowly reduce conductivity…the slat tops wil get burnt and dirty and not provide great contact.
I have seen people actually arc weld the sheet to the slats as the material tries to make contact with the “ground”…this fluctuates the voltage readings…
and the coiled up lines below the table can create issues with electromagnetic interferance…small but there…so make sure you have a ferrite choke on your USB…
but over all a well thought out system and pretty cool…thanks for sharing
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Here is a new post so that all the pictures and video are together if anyone is interested.
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I usually do clamp the ground to my work but with really small pieces its almost impossible without it being in the way.
I completely agree…
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What is the purpose of the coolant head? Heat management on thin material I assume, does it help to contain dust?
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Main reason for coolant at the torch is to control the movement of thinner stock. Besides keeping metal from warping the coolant helps reduce the noise. one of the greatest side effects is the amount of metal dust and smoke it prevents from becoming airborne . Also being able to pick-up your part right after cutting is very nice as well.
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