Are you talking about by the air shutoff valve right at the compressor tank or the fitting coming out of the pressure regulator?
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The pictures of the regulator. It looks like 3/8, but I have been wrong once or twice. That regulator looks to be 3/8 NPT. Get a larger one. At least 1/2 or even 3/4 inlet and bush it down. The orifice inside that regulator is like 3/16. It’s definitely restricting your flow. Pressure is one thing, but you need flow and pressure.. Ask Jimmy @ChelanJim I love spending other people’s money 
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Best money there is!
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This is what I feel like, at times, with these “hobbies”
It looks like AI had trouble finding the actual pocket in those pants.
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Hello, Bigdaddy2166 I will buy two muskrat guards..
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Well, that cleaning the screen did not work! Whata bummer! I did a little more testing and found the gauge on the regulator had the same 13 or so psi drop as the digital gauge on the front of the machine. This suggests that pressure is dropping before reaching the machine possibly at the regulator.
I took apart all the fittings from the tank up to the regulator looking for anything suspicious and found nothing except for some ice that blew out of the on off valve at the tank (freezing at night here). I thought that might have been it so I reassembled and still the same 13 psi pressure drop at the regulator gauge and machine.
This tells me that possibly the regulator is at fault here. Anyone have any input on that?
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The Everlast regulator? Or is it the one with the copper line in the pictures.?
One with the copper in the picture
Bypass it and report back. Set the compressor to 125 psi
I tried messing with my pressure regulator on the compressor and it failed. I got another on warranty. Not sure it is supposed to be adjustable, can’t remember…
I have this amazon regulator that is rated at 145 cfm, but it doesn’t say at what pressure it is tested at…
HIGH FLOW AIR PRESSURE REGULATOR Amazon.com
This is a good one. I have used it for years.
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It is like the old saying, “You get what you pay for.”
I have this one and it is very good. It is just a regulator:
I also have this one:
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Thanks for showing me what you are using ChelanJim. That old saying might be right in my case. Do you know what pressure drop do you see from set pressure to flow pressure?
Just wandering is that a 3 way at the compressor? Are you running the air to the plasma cutter through that? I have had a few of those that was restricting air flow I used for the air roofing nailer’s.
That’s a 3 way air chuck for running my air over hydraulic press break and other air tools. The plasma air runs directly off the same 1/2 npt T fitting from the tank. So the plasma air does not run through the 3 way air chuck.
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I am not seeing anymore than perhaps a 5 to 8 psi drop going thru at least 150 feet of hose, lots of filters, the dryer and two regulators but the advantage I have is that I have the Hypertherm cutter. I can put 100 psi to the back of the machine and it will regulate how much air pressure it requires. I actually have one regulator (the one I listed with the 1/2” inlet/outlets) about 10 feet from the cutter and it is set at 90 psi. When the table is running, that remains steady at 90 psi.
And I have not checked what my actual pressure is in the plasma cutter. It has always worked correctly and it would alert me if it was insufficient. Sorry 
That’s great for you man. I’m buying a new air pressure regulator. Looking at a Parker p33 series 233 cfm @100 psi that I can get locally for $86. I was looking at a motorguard M60 filter to run with the regulator after the air chiller/dehydrofyer. I’ll get this dang thing put back together when all the stars align and report back.
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Good update! I got the new parker 1/2” NPT P33 series regulator hooked up with the harbor freight refer air dryer and about 16’ total 1/2” rubber hose 10’ before the air dryer and 6’ after the dryer. I get 3 psi loss when I check the air flow. I am now able to get the correct pressure for my system. I will report back the pressure drop when I get the Motorguard M60 air filter installed inline after the regulator just to add information.
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George gave a good recommendation on another thread: Have a pressure gauge before and after the Motorguard filter. If you see a drop in pressure on the downstream pressure gauge, you will know it is time to change the filter.
Keep the updates coming. That is what we live for!!! (Not serious…I have more than just the forum in my life…yes I do 
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Oh man Chelan, I know what you mean. I get that high when I fix stuff and I’m happy to share the experience and happy you guys helped. I think someone mentioned a regulator in the beginning before I took everything apart lol. Now I know my equipment better and have a nice regulator where I previously cheeped out.
Boy I’d like to have just bought a Hypertherm to begin with too, however I’m happy with the Everlast when it works and I’m finding out what the differences are between the two and that’s all part of the process for me. I do actually have a Hypertherm Powermax600 with a hand torch that I use a lot for everything else not table oriented.
I’ll keep the updates coming, I have the machine psi readout which matches with the gauge on the regulator which will be before the filter which I will be able to compare the two for filter changeouts.
Really excited for my next production run now. It will be mostly 1/4 mild steel P&O and will be at least a full sheet. I stand there with my respirator and eye protection and monitor the whole time and I’m looking forward to not having to pause and restart to clean the shield and I think my consumables will go so much farther. I think this will overall improve the quality of the parts I produce for my customers especially the hole cutting quality and my experience. All that will cut down on the time it takes me to clean everything up for the final product.
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